This miniature hanging swing chair is made mainly from popsicle sticks, with small beads, thread and metal chains added to create the suspension system. The finished chair has a simple wooden seat, armrests and a decorative geometric backrest, making it suitable for a dollhouse porch, miniature garden or small-scale outdoor scene.

In this step-by-step tutorial, I’ll show you how the individual wooden pieces are cut, assembled, reinforced and sanded before the chains and decorative details are added. It may look intricate when finished, but the construction starts with a very simple square seat made from short pieces of popsicle stick.

Materials You'll Need

Before you get started, gather the following materials:

• Popsicle sticks (craft sticks)
• matchsticks
• Crafting Glue (like Grab Fast Tacky glue)
• Craft knife or hobby knife
• Metal ruler
• Cutting mat
• Pencil
• Sandpaper (fine grit)
• Small beads
• Strong thread or jewelry cord
• Small metal jump rings
• Fine decorative chain
• Scissors
• Pin vise (or mini hand drill)
• Jump rings (6–8 mm)
• Fine jewelry chain
• Wood stain, acrylic paint or varnish (optional, for finishing)

Optional tools

• Mini clamps or tweezers to hold small parts while the glue dries

This project is suitable for several miniature scales depending on the final dimensions.

Step-by-step tutorial

Let's get straight to the tutorial again!

Step 1: Build the Seat Base

Begin by cutting five pieces measuring approximately 5 cm long from a popsicle stick. Arrange them side by side to create a square seat measuring about 5 × 5 cm.

Next, cut two support strips, each approximately 4.5 cm long, and glue them across the back of the seat—one near the top and one near the bottom. These reinforcement pieces will hold the seat together and keep it nice and sturdy.

Once the glue has completely dried, turn the seat over and use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges and gently round the four corners. This simple step gives the seat a much cleaner, more professional finish and prepares it for the rest of the build.

Step 2: Attach the First Side Support

Cut one full-width popsicle stick to 5 cm. This piece will become the first side support of your miniature swing.

Apply a thin line of glue along one long edge of the stick and position it vertically against the side of the seat base, making sure it sits flush with the bottom edge. Hold it in place for a few seconds until the glue has set.

Take your time aligning this piece carefully, as it will determine how straight the rest of the swing frame will be.

Step 3: Build the Back Frame

Cut a popsicle stick in half to get 2 narrow strips.

Cut these again, to get 3 pieces with the same height as the back strip in the picture above.

Trim the ends of all three pieces at a 45-degree angle so they fit together neatly.

Glue the pieces together to form a rectangular frame.

Finally, glue the completed frame to the back of the seat, making sure it is centered and sits straight before the glue sets. Measure everything again beforehand to make sure it fits perfectly to the back.

Step 4: Add the Front Arm Supports

Cut two narrow strips measuring approximately 2.5 cm. Trim the ends of each strip at a slight angle so it will sit neatly beneath the armrests later.

Glue the strips vertically to the front corners of the seat, with the angled ends pointing inward. Try to keep both supports at the same angle so the armrests will sit evenly later.

Allow the glue to cool completely before moving on to the next step.

Step 5: Make the Armrests

Cut two popsicle stick pieces measuring approximately 5,5 cm long. Leave one rounded end intact, as this will become the front of each armrest.

Using an X-Acto knife, a mini drill, or a pin vise, carefully make two small holes near the squared end of each armrest. Thread a thin piece of string through the holes and slide five small pearl beads onto each side. Tie or secure the thread so the beads stay in place.

Finally, glue each armrest onto the chair by attaching the beaded ends to the back frame and resting the front of the armrest on the angled front support. Repeat on the opposite side and make sure both armrests are level before the glue dries.

Step 6: Add the Decorative Back Supports

Cut three matchsticks or thin wooden sticks to approximately 2.5 cm long. Trim both ends at a slight angle so they fit neatly between the center back support and the outer frame.

Starting at the top, glue the first stick in place so it slopes gently downward toward the outside of the chair. Repeat with the remaining two pieces, spacing them evenly to create the decorative crisscross-style backrest shown in the photos.

Take your time adjusting each piece before the glue sets—the small angled braces give the chair its finished look and add extra strength to the backrest.

Step 7: Attach the Hanging Chains

To finish your miniature porch swing, attach the hanging hardware.

Thread the two beaded cords through two small jump rings (approximately 6–8 mm in diameter), one for each side of the chair. Close the jump rings securely with small jewelry pliers.

Next, attach a length of fine metal chain to each jump ring. Adjust both chains until they are the same length so the swing hangs level.

You can now hang your miniature porch swing from a dollhouse ceiling, porch roof, or display stand. If you'd like, paint or stain the wood first, then add tiny cushions or pillows for an even cozier finishing touch.

Conclusion

Feel free to customize your swing with paint, wood stain, cushions, or tiny accessories to match your dollhouse style. It's a simple project that's easy to personalize, making every swing unique.

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Looking for a stylish piece of furniture for your Barbie dollhouse? This modern scalloped chair is a fun project that's surprisingly easy to make using simple materials.

In this step-by-step tutorial, I'll show you how to build the chair from scratch, from creating the seat base and backrest to upholstering the frame and attaching the legs. You don't need any special tools, making this a great project for beginners as well as experienced miniature makers.

Let's go!

List of Materials

You'll need the following supplies to make this miniature upholstered chair:

• Cardboard (for the seat base)
• Stretch fabric or jersey knit fabric
• Kitchen paper (or a paper towel) for the padding
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Cutting mat
• Toothpick or bamboo skewer (for making pilot holes and applying glue)

Optional

• Fabric glue (for securing loose fabric edges)
• Acrylic paint or wood stain (to finish the bamboo legs)
• Sandpaper or a nail file (to smooth the cut ends of the bamboo skewers)

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Make the Seat Base

Draw a circle onto a piece of sturdy cardboard and cut it out. Repeat to make a second identical circle, then glue the two pieces together. Doubling the cardboard creates a stronger base for your Barbie chair and helps it hold its shape.

Step 2: Cut the Backrest Pieces

Using bamboo skewers, cut all the pieces needed for the chair frame. Accuracy is important, so measure each piece carefully before cutting.

• Base pieces: Cut one piece measuring 6 cm and one piece measuring 5.5 cm.
• Central backrest sticks: Cut 2 pieces measuring 6.3 cm.
• Remaining backrest and side sticks: Cut the remaining pieces by reducing the length by 0.8 cm for each pair as you move outward from the center. This gradual reduction creates the curved shape of the chair back and armrests.
• Legs: Cut 4 pieces measuring 5 cm.

Lay all the pieces out in order from the longest to the shortest before moving on to the next step. This makes the assembly much easier and helps keep both sides of the chair perfectly symmetrical.

Step 3: Add Padding to the Backrest Pieces

Separate a paper towel into a single ply and cut it into strips that are slightly wider than your craft sticks.

Apply a thin line of hot glue down the center of each wooden piece, then press it onto the paper towel. Trim away the excess paper and repeat until all of the backrest pieces have a thin layer of padding. This will give the finished chair a soft, upholstered appearance once the fabric is added.

Step 4: Trim the Padding

Once the glue has cooled, trim away the excess paper towel around each craft stick with a pair of scissors. Follow the shape of the rounded top as closely as possible so every piece has a neat, even finish.

When you're done, arrange the padded pieces by size and set them aside for the next step.

Step 5: Cover the Cushions with Fabric

Cut a piece of fabric slightly larger than each padded craft stick. Apply a thin line of hot glue around the edges of the paper towel layer, then place the fabric over the front and press it down gently, smoothing out any wrinkles.

Turn the piece over and add a small dab of hot glue to the rounded top. Fold the fabric neatly over the curved edge and press it into place.

Next, glue the long sides, pulling the fabric snug as you fold it over to the back. Finally, fold and glue the bottom edge, trimming away any bulky excess if needed.

Repeat this process for all of the padded pieces until every cushion is neatly covered in fabric.

Step 6: Make the Side Cushions

For the narrow side cushions, cut a strip of fabric that is wide enough to wrap completely around the padded craft stick. Apply a thin line of hot glue along the back seam, then fold the fabric over and press the edges together to create a smooth, rounded cushion.

Hold the seam closed for a few seconds while the glue cools. Try to keep the seam as straight and narrow as possible, as it will be glued against the chair frame later and won't be visible.

Repeat this process for all of the narrow side cushions. You should now have soft, fabric-covered cushions with a neat rounded front and a single glued seam running along the back.

Step 7: Make and Cover the Seat Cushion

Take one of the cardboard circles and cover the top with a layer of kitchen paper to add a little softness and volume. Trim the paper roughly to the shape of the circle.

Place this padded circle in the center of a larger piece of pink fabric. Pull the fabric around the edges and glue it to the back, working gradually around the circle so the front stays smooth.

Once the fabric is secured, glue the second cardboard circle onto the back. This hides the folded fabric edges and gives the cushion a firm, tidy base.

I think it is better in this case to let the multiple pictures do the talking:

Step 8: Assemble the Upholstered Chair

Apply a generous amount of hot glue to the bottom end of one upholstered tube and press it firmly against the back edge of the seat cushion. Hold it in place for a few seconds until the glue sets. Attach the second tube beside the first, making sure both pieces are straight and evenly aligned.

Continue gluing the remaining upholstered tubes one by one around the curved edge of the seat, spacing them evenly to create the chair's rounded back and armrests. The tubes at the sides naturally curve forward, giving the chair its distinctive wraparound shape.

Once all the pieces have been attached, check that they are evenly spaced and make any small adjustments before the glue fully hardens. The result is a soft, rounded accent chair ready for the final finishing touches.

Step 9: Finish the Chair with Decorative Piping

Create a long, thin fabric cord by wrapping a narrow strip of fabric tightly around a piece of string or thin cord. This will become the decorative piping that hides the raw edges and gives the chair a polished, upholstered finish.

Starting at one side of the chair, apply a thin bead of hot glue along the front edge of the seat base and press the piping into place. Work slowly around the curved front of the chair, keeping the piping snug against the edge. Continue gluing until you reach the opposite side, trimming off any excess.

Once the piping is attached, gently press it down with your fingers so it follows the curve of the chair evenly. This simple finishing detail conceals the fabric edges and gives the miniature chair a much cleaner, more professional appearance.

Step 10: Attach the Chair Legs

Cut four bamboo skewers to the desired length for the chair legs. Turn the chair upside down and use a pointed skewer to carefully make four pilot holes in the cardboard base where you marked the leg positions earlier. These small holes make it much easier to insert the legs neatly.

Add a generous drop of hot glue into each hole, then insert a bamboo skewer at a slight outward angle. Repeat for all four legs, checking from different angles to make sure they are evenly spaced and the chair stands level. Hold each leg in place for a few seconds while the glue sets.

Your Miniature Chair Is Finished!

Your upholstered miniature chair is now complete and ready to display in your dollhouse or miniature room. You can leave the bamboo legs natural for a Scandinavian look, or paint or stain them to match your décor.

This simple technique can also be adapted to make chairs in different sizes, fabrics, and colors, allowing you to create an entire matching dining or living room set.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Looking for an easy dollhouse furniture project? This miniature chair is made almost entirely from ordinary wooden matchsticks and a little thread for the woven seat. It's inexpensive to make, requires only a few basic tools, and is a great project for beginners who want to try building realistic miniature furniture from scratch.

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to cut the matchsticks, assemble the chair frame, and weave the seat to create a sturdy little chair that's perfect for any 1:12 scale dollhouse kitchen, dining room, or cottage.

Materials needed

• Wooden matchsticks (heads removed), long and short ones
• Craft knife or scissors
• Metal ruler
• Tweezers
• Fast-drying craft glue (such as B-7000)
• Fine sandpaper
• Brown embroidery floss, crochet thread, or thin cotton cord for the woven seat

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1 – Cut the Matchsticks

Start by cutting all of the matchsticks you'll need for the first side of the chair frame.

Cut the following pieces for the first side of the chair:

• 2 matchsticks measuring 8 cm (chair legs)
• 10 short matchstick pieces of equal length (about 3.5 cm)

Make all 10 short pieces exactly the same length. We'll refer to them as the crossbars throughout the tutorial.

Step 2: Build the First Side of the Chair

Apply a small drop of wood glue to the top of one of the 8 cm chair legs. Position a 3.5 cm crossbar so it sits flush with the top of the leg, forming a right angle.

Next, glue a second 3.5 cm crossbar directly underneath the first one, leaving a narrow gap between the two pieces. These two bars will become the chair's backrest.

Then, glue a third 3.5 cm crossbar lower down the leg, about in the middle. This piece will support the seat, so try to keep it level with the backrest bars.

Allow the glue to set for a few minutes before moving on to the next step.

Finally, glue the fourth crossbar close to the bottom of the leg. This will strengthen the frame and act as the lower side support.

Tip: A small engineer's square or a ruler helps keep every crossbar at a perfect 90° angle. A straight side frame will make the rest of the chair much easier to assemble.

Take the second 8 cm matchstick and glue it to the opposite ends of the four horizontal crossbars, completing the side frame of the chair.

Step 3: Build the Seat Frame

Next, glue four 3.5 cm matchsticks upright onto the frame as shown in the photos.

Position 4 of them at the back of the seat area. These pieces form the supports for the seat.

Step 4: Connect the Front Legs

Using the remaining 3.5 cm matchsticks, build the front frame.

1. Glue one 3.5 cm stick between the tops of the two front legs. This forms the front edge of the seat.
2. Glue another 3.5 cm stick between the front legs near the bottom, level with the rear lower crossbar. This strengthens the base.
3. Finally, glue one 3.5 cm stick on each side, connecting the lower front and rear legs. These are the lower side stretchers.

When finished, the chair frame should look like the final photo—a sturdy open frame with the seat opening ready for the next stage.

Allow the glue to dry before continuing to the next step.

Final frame: if you can make it straighter than I have, I admire you! hahaha

Tip: Make a straight drawing on a piece of paper of the chair, so you would just need to align your wooden sticks to the building plan when you glue them together. I should have done that in the first place!

Step 5: Start the Woven Seat

Materials

• Thin embroidery floss, crochet cotton, or strong sewing thread
• Large sewing needle

• 1. Tie the thread

Tie one end of the thread securely around the front-left corner of the seat frame (the horizontal seat rail).

Leave a short tail and pull the knot tight.

• 2. Make the first loop

Bring the thread:

• up the outside of the left side rail,
• across the top,
• down the inside,
• underneath the front rail,
• back to where you started.

This creates one complete loop around the seat opening.

• 3. Continue wrapping

Repeat the same movement over and over.

Each loop should sit directly beside the previous one.

Keep the thread under even tension so it stays straight but doesn't bend the wooden frame.

• 4. Fill the seat

Continue!

There are approximately 15-16 parallel strands covering roughly the seat opening.

Keep the strands together

As you wrap, gently push the strands together with your fingernail so there are no large gaps.

Finish wrapping the warp threads. Continue wrapping the thread around the seat frame until the entire seat is covered with evenly spaced vertical strands. Tie off or secure the thread on the right side of the frame.

• 5: Weave the Seat

With all of the vertical threads (the warp) in place, you can begin weaving the seat.

Thread the same cotton onto a large sewing needle. Starting at one side of the chair, pass the needle over one vertical strand, under the next, alternating all the way across the seat.

Pull the thread through and use the needle to gently push the woven row down against the wrapped front edge. On the next row, reverse the pattern by weaving under the first strand, over the next, continuing to alternate each row.

Continue weaving back and forth until the entire seat is filled with an even basket-weave pattern. Every few rows, use the needle to pack the weave tightly together so there are no large gaps.

When you reach the back of the seat, wrap the thread neatly around the rear crossbar several times to match the wrapped edge at the front. Tie a small knot underneath the seat and trim the excess thread.

The woven seat should now be firm, evenly tensioned, and completely cover the chair frame, creating a realistic miniature woven chair seat.

Conclusion

Congratulations! Your miniature woven chair is now complete. You can leave it with its natural wood finish for a rustic look, stain or paint the frame to match your dollhouse décor, or add a tiny cushion for extra comfort.

This simple project is a great introduction to miniature weaving techniques and can easily be adapted to create stools, benches, or chairs in different sizes and styles.

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Have you ever found a beautiful dollhouse printable Persian rug or vintage wallpaper online, only to wonder what you're actually supposed to print it on?

You're not alone. This question comes up regularly in dollhouse groups, and there are dozens of different answers. Some miniaturists print directly onto cotton, others swear by velour paper, while many simply use high-quality paper for wallpaper.

After looking through dozens of recommendations from experienced dollhouse makers, here are the materials that work best—and when to use each one.

Quick Comparison

If you only remember one thing from this guide, it's this: Print rugs on velour paper or cotton, and print wallpaper on quality matte paper.

The Best Material for Printable Dollhouse Rugs

There isn't one perfect material because every type of rug looks a little different. Some are woven, some are fluffy, and others are flat. Fortunately, there are several options that work surprisingly well.

1. Velour Paper (My Favorite Recommendation)

If you've never heard of velour paper, you're not alone.

It looks like ordinary paper until you touch it. The surface has a soft, velvety texture that resembles short-pile carpet, making it one of the easiest ways to create realistic miniature rugs.

Pros

• Looks like real carpet
• Prints detailed designs well
• Easy to cut cleanly
• Doesn't fray
• Great for Persian rugs and decorative carpets

Cons

• Slightly thicker than regular paper
• Works best with inkjet printers

If you're making printable rugs for the first time, this is probably the easiest material to start with.

2. Printing Directly onto Cotton

Many experienced miniaturists prefer real fabric because it naturally looks... well... like fabric.

The trick is getting thin cotton through your printer.

The most common method is to temporarily attach the cotton to freezer paper.

How it works

1. Iron freezer paper onto thin cotton.
2. Trim it to printer paper size.
3. Feed it through an inkjet printer.
4. Carefully peel off the freezer paper.
5. Cut out your miniature rug.

Thin cotton or muslin both work well.

The result has a soft texture that looks much more realistic than ordinary paper.

3. Iron-On Transfer Paper

Another option is printable transfer paper.

Instead of printing directly onto fabric, you print onto transfer paper and iron the design onto cotton.

This method works well if you already have transfer paper at home, but it isn't always my first choice for miniatures because it can leave the fabric feeling slightly stiffer.

Still, it's a perfectly good option for decorative rugs.

The Best Paper for Dollhouse Wallpaper

Wallpaper is much easier than rugs.

Unlike rugs, wallpaper doesn't need texture—it just needs a crisp, detailed print.

Premium Matte Paper

Most miniaturists recommend using a good-quality matte paper.

It prints sharp details, doesn't reflect light, and looks much more realistic than glossy photo paper.

A weight somewhere around 160–200 gsm usually works well, depending on your printer.

Scrapbook Paper

If you don't need a custom pattern, scrapbook paper is another excellent option.

Craft stores sell hundreds of miniature-friendly patterns including:

• vintage florals
• stripes
• damask
• wood textures
• brick
• marble
• tile

Because scrapbook paper is already printed professionally, the colours are often richer than a home printer can produce.

A Clever Source for Wallpaper Designs

One tip to consider is using online fabric stores.

Many fabric retailers show large repeating patterns on their product pages.

These repeating designs can sometimes be resized and printed as dollhouse wallpaper.

Just make sure you're respecting copyright if you plan to share or sell the finished printables.

Budget-Friendly Ideas

Several dollhouse makers share creative alternatives that cost almost nothing.

For wallpaper:

• Ask decorating stores for old wallpaper sample books.
• Check whether wallpaper shops have discontinued sample cards.
• Browse scrapbook paper at dollar stores.

For rugs:

• Small placemats from thrift stores.
• Decorative washcloths.
• Thin woven fabrics.
• Crochet or woven thread rugs.

Not every miniature project needs to start with a printer.

Conclusion

Whether you're making a richly patterned Persian rug or decorating an entire dollhouse room with printable wallpaper, choosing the right material can make all the difference. For most projects, velour paper is the best choice for rugs, while premium matte paper works beautifully for wallpaper. If you enjoy experimenting, printing directly onto cotton with the freezer paper method is another excellent option.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

If you're looking for a quick and beginner-friendly dollhouse project, this miniature plant stand is a fun one to make. It only uses a handful of popsicle sticks, wooden dowels, and a little glue, but the finished piece looks surprisingly stylish. It's perfect for displaying tiny potted plants, books, candles, or other miniature decorations in a modern dollhouse.

Let's build it step by step!

Materials You'll Need

Just a quick tutorial today, and this is all you need:

• Jumbo popsicle sticks
• 4 mm wooden dowels ( like bamboo skewers)
• Craft knife or hobby saw
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Wood glue or strong craft glue
• Sandpaper (optional)

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Make the Three Shelves

Start by making the three shelves for your miniature plant stand.

Using a ruler and pencil, mark a jumbo popsicle stick into 3 cm sections. Cut out nine pieces measuring 3 × 1 cm.

Arrange three of the pieces side by side to form a 3 × 3 cm square. Apply a small amount of glue along the long edges and press the pieces together.

To reinforce the shelf, glue 2 extra 3 × 1 cm pieces across the back. This will hold the three planks firmly together while keeping the front looking like individual boards.

Repeat the process until you have three identical shelves, then allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Tip: Keep the planks as close together as possible while the glue dries. If needed, lightly sand the edges afterward for a cleaner finish.

Step 2: Build the Lower Frame

Start by cutting the following dowels:

• 4 pieces measuring 6.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 6 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 4 cm

Begin by gluing the two 6.5 cm dowels and the two 4 cm dowels together to create a rectangular base. They sit on top of each other, not next to each other.

Next, glue one of the 3 × 3 cm shelves onto the right side of the frame, positioning it flush with the outside edge as shown in the photos.

Now glue two 6 cm dowels vertically onto these shelves. These will support the upper shelves.

Finally, glue 2, 4 cm dowel vertically into the back left corner of the base.

Allow the glue to dry before continuing to the next step, checking that all 4 upright dowels are straight and perpendicular to the base.

Tip: It's easier to let the rectangular frame set for a few minutes before attaching the vertical supports. This keeps everything square and prevents the frame from shifting while the glue is still wet.

Step 3: Add the Remaining Shelves

Cut the following bamboo dowels:

• 2 pieces measuring 3.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 3 cm

Glue two 3.5 cm dowels horizontally between the two taller right-hand uprights. This creates the support for the middle shelf.

Next, glue one of the remaining 3 × 3 cm shelf panels onto the left side, resting on the horizontal support and the angled upright, as shown in the photos.

Now glue the two 3 cm dowels vertically to those shelves on the left side of the structure. These will support the top shelf. Make sure that these 4 are all at the same height.

Finally, position the last 3 × 3 cm shelf panel on top of the four uprights and glue it into place. Make sure all shelves sit level before the glue sets.

Tip: Dry-fit the final shelf before adding glue. If one upright is slightly taller than the others, lightly sand it first so the top shelf sits perfectly flat.

Your Miniature Bamboo Shelf Is Finished!

Once the glue has completely dried, lightly sand away any rough edges or excess glue. You can leave the shelf natural for a simple bamboo look, or paint or stain it to match your dollhouse décor. Add tiny books, plants, baskets, or other miniature accessories to create a charming display piece.

I hope you enjoyed this easy DIY project. If you make your own version, I'd love to hear how you customized it!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I wanted to make a small hanging chair for my miniature treehouse, and this turned out to be such a cute little boho-style project. I used metal bangles for the round shapes, wrapped them with twine, and then you can add a cushion (which I will create later)

It takes a bit of patience, especially with the wrapping, but the result is worth it.

Let's start with the list of materials.

Adaptable to your own taste or particular project or your own scale, here's the list of materials that I used:

• Scissors

• 4 metal bangles (approximately 6–7 cm / 2.4–2.75 inches in diameter)

• Natural jute twine

• Satin ribbon (about 6 mm / ¼ inch wide)

• 4 small jump rings

• materials to create your cushion, I have made a cushion for now from some white clay and kitchen paper, but I will change this later with a real tiny cushion. It is just to show you how it could look when finished.

• Hot glue gun and glue sticks. For those who don't want to work with a glue gun, use UHU glue or grab fast tacky glue.

• Wire cutters or strong jewelry pliers

By the way, here's how to create tiny cushions, with a lot of extra tips from the community!

Step-by-step tutorial

Let's do this step by step, here we go!

Step 1: Cover the main ring with twine

Start with one metal bangle. This will become the main round frame of the hanging chair.

Wrap jute twine tightly around the bangle, working your way around the full circle. Add a little hot glue here and there while wrapping, so the twine stays in place and does not slide around.

Keep wrapping until the metal ring is completely covered. This gives the chair frame that rustic rope look.

Step 2: Make the hanging stand

Take a second metal ring and cut it open using strong wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors.

Carefully bend the ring into a long, smooth curve. At one end, curl the tip inward with needle-nose pliers to create a small hook. This is where the chair will eventually hang.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire stand with the same jute twine. Secure the beginning and end with a small amount of hot glue, adding a little glue every few centimeters to keep the twine tight and even.

When finished, you should have a curved stand with a hook at the top, ready to support the hanging chair.

Step 3: Attach the stand to the base

Apply a generous amount of hot glue to one side of the wrapped ring. Position the straight end of the curved stand against the ring so it stands upright, creating the base of the chair.

Hold the stand firmly in place until the glue has cooled and hardened. Check that the stand is vertical and that the base sits flat on your work surface. If needed, add a little extra hot glue around the joint to strengthen it.

At this stage, you should have a sturdy freestanding support consisting of the circular base and the curved arm that will hold the hanging chair.

If you like, you could cover the glue residue from the glue gun and untwist (unravel) the rope into individual strands. Then use one of those thinner strands to wrap around the glued joint, but this time use some tacky glue.

Step 4: Make the chair frame

Take another metal ring and gently reshape it into a teardrop. Pinch the top together slightly while keeping the bottom rounded. Don't worry about making it perfect yet—you can adjust the shape as you go.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire frame with the same jute twine. Keep each wrap close to the previous one so the metal is completely hidden.

When finished, you should have a neatly wrapped teardrop-shaped frame that will form the outer edge of your miniature hanging chair. This frame should be slightly smaller than the height of the curved stand, leaving enough room for the chair to hang freely.

Step 5: Add the inner support frame

To give the hanging chair its shape and provide a base for the woven seat, you'll need a second, smaller frame.

Take another metal ring and cut away two small sections, leaving two identical curved pieces. Cover one of these curved pieces with a narrow satin ribbon or fabric tape. Wrapping it instead of using jute creates a smoother finish and prevents extra bulk inside the chair.

Once wrapped, position the curved piece inside the teardrop frame. The ends should meet the frame near the top and bottom, following the same curve as the outside edge while sitting a short distance inward.

Secure both ends with hot glue. This inner support will hold the woven seat and help the miniature hanging chair keep its shape. Before the glue cools completely, make any small adjustments so the support sits evenly and follows the curve of the chair.

Try to remove excess glue once everything is dry.

Step 6: Build the basket frame

Now it's time to give your hanging chair its rounded basket shape by adding the side supports.

Take three more curved metal pieces and wrap each one with the same satin ribbon you used for the first support. This creates a neat finish and keeps the frame slim enough for weaving later.

Glue the first support from the top center of the chair to the opposite side at the bottom. Position the second and third supports evenly around the frame, spacing them equally so they create a rounded, dome-like structure.

Don't worry if the shape isn't perfect straight away. Before the glue sets, gently bend and adjust each support until the basket looks balanced from every angle.

Once the three supports are attached, add two more curved pieces that run across the sides of the chair. Instead of running from top to bottom, these supports connect the left and right sides of the frame, crossing over the existing ribs. This strengthens the structure and gives the chair its rounded, egg-shaped appearance.

Remove excessive glue residu.

Step 7: Add the hanging chain and outer support

It's time to attach the chair to its stand.

Connect four small jump rings together to create a short hanging chain. Attach one end of the chain securely to the top of the chair frame.

Next, position the large outer support around the chair and attach the other end of the chain to the top center of the support. This allows the chair to hang freely inside the frame.

Hang the chain and 'egg' to the top and reinforce it with glue. Make any small adjustments now to ensure it is balanced.

Once you're happy with the position, apply a little extra hot glue over the top attachment point to strengthen the connection.

If any glue is visible, you can disguise it by gluing a few loose jute fibers over the area, giving it the same natural look as the rest of the frame.

Step 8: create some pillows.

For the purpose of this tutorial and its final look, I temporarely used some polymer clay and kitchen paper, but I will add real cushions later.

But for now, I'm done!

Related article:

• How to create a miniature cardboard hall bench with openable drawers.

• How to create a dollhouse miniature plant stand from popsicle sticks and bamboo skewers.

Wrapping It Up

Although it may look like a complicated project at first, it's actually built from just a few simple materials and a little patience. Once the frame is finished, all that's left is to add a soft cushion, a few tiny pillows, or even a miniature throw blanket to make it feel extra cozy.

If you enjoyed making this miniature hanging chair, I'd love to hear how yours turned out. Feel free to leave a comment below or share a photo in my Facebook group!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

One of my favorite things about making dollhouse miniatures is looking at everyday objects and imagining what they could become in miniature. A bottle cap can turn into a summer hat, cardboard can become furniture, and bits of string, ribbon, or fabric often end up as surprisingly realistic accessories.

In this growing collection of tutorials, I'll show you how I transform ordinary household items into simple dollhouse miniatures, starting with small miniature straw hats that could fit a Barbie.

DIY Miniature Summer Hat from a Bottle Cap

Covering a soda bottle cap with cotton cord quickly transforms it into a charming little summer hat for a dollhouse.

The best part is that you can decorate each hat differently. A ribbon, pearl, tiny flower, or bow completely changes the final look.

Materials

• Plastic soda bottle cap
• Thick cardboard or MDF
• Cotton cord (natural or colored)
• Hot glue gun
• Sharp scissors
• Satin ribbon, twine, pearls or other embellishments

Step by step tutorial:

Step 1 – Prepare the bottle cap

Press the bottle cap firmly onto a piece of cardboard or MDF. This will become the brim of your miniature hat.

Place a small drop of hot glue in the center of the bottle cap and begin rolling the cotton cord into a tight spiral.

Continue adding small amounts of hot glue while wrapping the cord around itself until the entire top of the bottle cap is covered.

Without cutting the cord, keep wrapping it around the outside edge of the bottle cap. Each new round forms the brim of the hat.

Keep adding rows of cord until the brim is as wide as you like.

Once the glue has cooled completely, carefully cut around the outside of the brim with sharp scissors. Trim as closely as possible to the edge of the cord.

At this point, you already have a simple miniature straw hat.

And you can start to decorate the hat.

Glue a thin satin ribbon around the base of the crown.

Finish the hat with a small bow, bead, pearl, tiny flower, or any decoration you like.

Conclusion

Who would have thought that an ordinary plastic bottle cap could become such an elegant dollhouse accessory? This little project proves that you don't need expensive materials to make realistic miniatures.

If you're looking for more easy DIY tutorials you can do with the (grand)kids, there are plenty on my site!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I love finding ways to turn everyday materials into miniatures, and cardboard packaging is one of my favorite supplies. It's free, easy to cut, and perfect for a rainy day in summer, together with your (grand)kids.

As a matter of fact, I am writing this in the middle of a thunderstorm during a heatwave :-)

For this project, I built an entire miniature bedroom using recycled cardboard from packaging that would normally end up in the recycling bin. The room includes a bed, dresser, storage cabinet, shelving unit, and even a small decorative rug.

Materials Needed

This is another small project that you can work on with your children, as I have done before here.

List of materials:

• (clean) Corrugated cardboard
• Thin cardboard from food packaging or cereal boxes
• Craft glue or tacky glue
• Pencil
• Metal ruler
• Scissors or craft knife
• Decorative scrapbook paper for the rug
• Small cardboard circles for drawer knobs

Step-by-step tutorial

This tutorial will take you through an afternoon full of crafting fun. You might even want to add this miniature straw hat to the scene, after you build this room, so let's go!

Step 1: Build the Room Structure

Begin by cutting three large pieces of corrugated cardboard.

One piece becomes the floor, while the other two form the walls.

Glue the walls to the floor at a right angle to create a corner room. Hold everything in place until the glue begins to set.

This simple structure provides the base for the entire bedroom scene.

Step 2: Make the Bed

For the bed base, cut a rectangle measuring 8 x 6 cm.

Add borders around all four sides and fold them upward to create depth. Cut small slits at the corners so the sides can fold neatly.

Glue the tabs underneath to form a sturdy box.

Decorate the bed underneath with a colorful cardstock paper print.

You could do the same for the top of the bed, just like I did in this DIY dollhouse bedding tutorial.

For the legs, cut four pieces measuring approximately 2 x 3 cm, fold them into simple supports, and glue them underneath the bed.

Create a decorative headboard from thin cardboard and glue it to one end of the bed.

Step 3: Make the Dresser

Cut a rectangle measuring 6 x 8 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm on all four sides.

Cut the corner slits, fold the borders inward, and glue the tabs to create a box.

Once dry, glue two thin cardboard rectangles onto the front to create drawer fronts.

Finish by adding small cardboard circles as drawer knobs.

You can create multiple ones with different measurements:

Step 4: Make the Tall Drawer Unit

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 12 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm around all four sides.

Fold and glue the cardboard in exactly the same way as the dresser.

Once assembled, add three drawer fronts made from thin cardboard and, again, glue a small cardboard circle onto each drawer.

Step 5: Make the Bookshelf

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 10 cm.

Add borders measuring 2.5 cm around all four sides.

Cut the corner tabs, fold the sides upward, and glue the box together.

To create shelves, cut three narrow strips of cardboard and glue them horizontally inside the unit.

You can decorate everything with wood-colored cardstock paper.

The shelves don't need exact measurements. Simply trim them until they fit snugly between the side walls.

Step 6: Add a Rug

Cut a square from decorative scrapbook paper and place it on the floor.

I chose a floral pattern to add a little color to the room, but any scrapbook paper or printed design will work.

Place the bed, dresser, drawer unit, and bookshelf inside the room.

Move the pieces around until you're happy with the layout.

At this stage, the room is still plain cardboard, but the basic furniture is complete and ready for painting, wallpaper, bedding, books, and other miniature accessories.

Related article: how I created miniature Barbie straw hats from cardboard and bottle caps.

Wrapping up

Let me know in the comments below if you want me to build some more things for this bedroom or/and if you want me to build another type of cardboard room, like a little cardboard kitchen!

I wish you and your (grand)kids happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

If you've ever made miniature pillows, you've probably noticed that they often look easier to make than they actually are.

A tiny square of fabric stuffed with some filling sounds simple enough. Yet many beginners end up with pillows that look too bulky, too stiff, or completely out of scale with the rest of their dollhouse.

Recently, I spent some time browsing Facebook groups, Reddit discussions, miniature forums, and other online communities to see how experienced miniaturists make their pillows.

I also asked directly for tips and was surprised by how many different methods people use.

Some sew every pillow by hand. Others rely entirely on glue. A few use unusual materials like silica beads, sesame seeds, and even sand.

After reading through dozens of suggestions, I noticed the same pieces of advice coming up again and again. This article is a summary of the most useful tips I found, because I can not use every tip myself ( I wish I had the time ;-) ).

The Biggest Mistake: Using Too Much Stuffing

The advice I saw most often was simple: don't overstuff your pillows.

Many miniature pillows end up looking like balloons because they're packed too tightly with filling. Real pillows usually sag slightly under their own weight, and miniature versions should do the same.

Most experienced miniaturists recommend using just enough stuffing to give the pillow shape while still allowing it to flatten naturally.

After closing the pillow, gently squeeze and shape it with your fingers instead of leaving it perfectly square.

Use The Thinnest Fabric You Can Find

Several people pointed out that fabric thickness can make a huge difference.

Even beautiful fabric can look wrong if it's too thick for the scale.

Popular choices include:

• Lightweight cotton
• Old handkerchiefs!
• Thin shirt fabric
• Fabric samples
• Fine quilting cotton

Heavy upholstery fabrics often look oversized in 1:12 scale and can create bulky seams that are difficult to hide.

Sewing The Pillow Inside Out

Many miniature makers use the same basic method for pillows as full-sized sewing projects, meaning:

1. Place the fabric pieces right sides together.
2. Sew around the edges.
3. Leave a small opening.
4. Turn the pillow right-side out.
5. Add stuffing.
6. Close the opening with a few stitches.

One particularly useful tip was to sew as close to the edge as possible. This reduces bulk and helps the finished pillow look more delicate.

Check out this fantastic tutorial by Tasmin Bassett Art

Trim The Corners Before Turning

This tip appeared several times and makes a noticeable difference.

Before turning the pillow right-side out, trim the excess fabric from each corner diagonally.

Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Removing that extra fabric prevents the corners from bunching up and gives the finished pillow sharper, cleaner edges.

Don't Want To Sew? Glue Works Too

One thing that surprised me was how many miniaturists don't sew their pillows at all.

Instead, they use:

• Fabric glue
• Tacky glue
• E6000
• Small amounts of super glue

The process is very similar.

The fabric is glued along the edges, turned right-side out, lightly stuffed, and then sealed.

For very small cushions, many people reported getting results that look almost identical to sewn pillows.

The Double-Sided Tape Method

Several miniaturists mentioned using double-sided tape instead of sewing, and this is what I personally also used for my dollhouse bedding.

The basic idea is:

• Fold the fabric into a tube shape.
• Secure it with double-sided tape.
• Seal one end.
• Add stuffing.
• Close the remaining side.

Others use double-sided tape when making miniature bedding because it keeps fabric neatly in place without the risk of glue soaking through.

It's a surprisingly useful trick, especially for beginners.

Alternative Filling Materials

Polyester fiberfill is still the most common stuffing material, but some miniature makers use other options to make pillows behave more naturally.

Sesame Seeds

One miniaturist shared a tip learned from professional miniature artist Julie Warren.

Small amounts of sesame seeds can be used as filling to give pillows realistic weight and shape.

Sand

A few people mentioned fine sand.

While it creates excellent drape, it can leak if the pillow isn't sealed carefully.

Silica Packets

This was one of the most unusual suggestions.

Several miniaturists suggested using the tiny beads found inside silica packets, or even covering an entire silica gel packet with fabric to create a ready-made cushion insert.

The extra weight helps miniature pillows and cushions sit more naturally on furniture.

Pressing Tiny Fabric Pieces

Working with miniature fabric can be frustrating because pieces shift so easily.

One clever tip involved using a hair straightener instead of a regular iron.

The small plates make it easier to press tiny seams, folds, and pleats without wrestling with a full-sized iron.

Travel irons and miniature craft irons work well too.

Envelope-Style Pillows

One miniaturist described making pillows like small envelopes.

The fabric overlaps at the back, leaving a flap that remains open while stuffing is added.

Once the pillow reaches the desired shape, the flap is glued shut.

This method avoids visible seams and is particularly useful for decorative throw pillows.

Related article: 4 easy ways to create dollhouse curtains.

Wrapping it up

After reading through all these discussions, I noticed that the best-looking miniature pillows don't necessarily come from the most complicated techniques.

The same advice kept appearing:

• Use thin fabric.
• Don't overstuff.
• Trim the corners.
• Add a little weight if possible.
• Press your fabric before assembling.
• Slightly flatten the finished pillow.

How do you make your miniature pillows? Do you sew them, glue them, or use another method entirely? I'd love to hear what works best for you.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Remember last week, when we made the base of this bed? Today, we are doing the bed linen in this separate post, or all the pictures would slow it down.

I wanted this dollhouse bed to feel soft and layered, almost like a real romantic-style bed you would find in a cottage bedroom.

So for this project, I made a pleated bed skirt, a padded blanket, and decorative bedding using fabric, hemming tape, and a few simple materials.

Everything was done without sewing.

Materials I Used

• Thin fabric
• Fusible hemming tape
• Iron
• Paper towels
• Aluminium foil
• Decorative lace trim
• Fabric glue
• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Cutting mat

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Making The Pleated Bed Skirt

For the bed skirt, I started with a long strip of fabric. I made it much longer than the actual side of the bed so there would be enough material for the folds.

I then placed fusible hemming tape along the top edge of the fabric strip.

Then I folded the edge neatly over the tape.

Next, I folded the fabric back and forth to make evenly spaced pleats and sealed the edge with an Iron.

I pressed each fold with the iron so the pleats would stay in place.

You can already see the bed skirt shape starting to form here.

Once the pleats were finished, I glued the strip around the lower edge of the bed base. And covered it in place by adding another piece of hemming tape (push hard).

Step 2: Making The Main Blanket

For the blanket, I cut a rectangular piece of cream-colored fabric.

I added hemming tape along the sides and bottom edge

You can now attach a second layer on top, so you have a double sheet.

To give the blanket some volume, I placed folded paper towels inside aluminium foil.

This acts like a lightweight filling.

Insert it in the 'pouch'.

I added more hemming tape along the final opening and folded the fabric shut.

At this point, the blanket already had a soft padded look without becoming too bulky for the dollhouse scale.

To finish it off, I glued decorative lace trim along the lower edge of the blanket.

That small detail completely changed the look and made the bedding feel much more elegant.

Step 3: Make The Main Blanket

For the blanket itself, I started with a square piece of floral fabric.

I placed hem tape around the edges again so I could attach a second layer also again.

It is basically all the same method as the previous steps, paper towel, and aluminum foil. Fill up the blanket.

And again fold it and close it down.

Finish The Top Decorative Fold

To finish the blanket, I added a separate strip of pink embroidered fabric over the top edge of the floral blanket.

The embroidered strip wraps around the top edge from back to front, almost like a cuff. After that, I folded the front section downward one more time to create a thicker decorative top fold

This might be the tricky part, and I hope you understand what I mean!

Step 4: Add the Mattress and make the Pillows

For the mattress base and pillows, I used the same no-sew method from my earlier tutorial here:
How I Made No-Sew Dollhouse Bedding For My Popsicle Stick Bed

This tutorial would be too long to explain this again, so please refer to the blog post above!

So I created different sizes of pillows :

And a second mattress:

Step 5: put everything together!

The first stuffed blanket you made:

The second on top.

The larger pillows:

And the small ones:

FINISHED!

(Would you create the bed skirt in another color?)

I hope you've enjoyed my second obsession with dollhouse beds lol!

And I wish you happy crafting!

You can always leave a comment down below.

Kind regards,

Lizzy