If you're looking for a quick and beginner-friendly dollhouse project, this miniature plant stand is a fun one to make. It only uses a handful of popsicle sticks, wooden dowels, and a little glue, but the finished piece looks surprisingly stylish. It's perfect for displaying tiny potted plants, books, candles, or other miniature decorations in a modern dollhouse.

Let's build it step by step!

Materials You'll Need

Just a quick tutorial today, and this is all you need:

• Jumbo popsicle sticks
• 4 mm wooden dowels ( like bamboo skewers)
• Craft knife or hobby saw
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Wood glue or strong craft glue
• Sandpaper (optional)

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Make the Three Shelves

Start by making the three shelves for your miniature plant stand.

Using a ruler and pencil, mark a jumbo popsicle stick into 3 cm sections. Cut out nine pieces measuring 3 × 1 cm.

Arrange three of the pieces side by side to form a 3 × 3 cm square. Apply a small amount of glue along the long edges and press the pieces together.

To reinforce the shelf, glue 2 extra 3 × 1 cm pieces across the back. This will hold the three planks firmly together while keeping the front looking like individual boards.

Repeat the process until you have three identical shelves, then allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Tip: Keep the planks as close together as possible while the glue dries. If needed, lightly sand the edges afterward for a cleaner finish.

Step 2: Build the Lower Frame

Start by cutting the following dowels:

• 4 pieces measuring 6.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 6 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 4 cm

Begin by gluing the two 6.5 cm dowels and the two 4 cm dowels together to create a rectangular base. They sit on top of each other, not next to each other.

Next, glue one of the 3 × 3 cm shelves onto the right side of the frame, positioning it flush with the outside edge as shown in the photos.

Now glue two 6 cm dowels vertically onto these shelves. These will support the upper shelves.

Finally, glue 2, 4 cm dowel vertically into the back left corner of the base.

Allow the glue to dry before continuing to the next step, checking that all 4 upright dowels are straight and perpendicular to the base.

Tip: It's easier to let the rectangular frame set for a few minutes before attaching the vertical supports. This keeps everything square and prevents the frame from shifting while the glue is still wet.

Step 3: Add the Remaining Shelves

Cut the following bamboo dowels:

• 2 pieces measuring 3.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 3 cm

Glue two 3.5 cm dowels horizontally between the two taller right-hand uprights. This creates the support for the middle shelf.

Next, glue one of the remaining 3 × 3 cm shelf panels onto the left side, resting on the horizontal support and the angled upright, as shown in the photos.

Now glue the two 3 cm dowels vertically to those shelves on the left side of the structure. These will support the top shelf. Make sure that these 4 are all at the same height.

Finally, position the last 3 × 3 cm shelf panel on top of the four uprights and glue it into place. Make sure all shelves sit level before the glue sets.

Tip: Dry-fit the final shelf before adding glue. If one upright is slightly taller than the others, lightly sand it first so the top shelf sits perfectly flat.

Your Miniature Bamboo Shelf Is Finished!

Once the glue has completely dried, lightly sand away any rough edges or excess glue. You can leave the shelf natural for a simple bamboo look, or paint or stain it to match your dollhouse décor. Add tiny books, plants, baskets, or other miniature accessories to create a charming display piece.

I hope you enjoyed this easy DIY project. If you make your own version, I'd love to hear how you customized it!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I wanted to make a small hanging chair for my miniature treehouse, and this turned out to be such a cute little boho-style project. I used metal bangles for the round shapes, wrapped them with twine, and then you can add a cushion (which I will create later)

It takes a bit of patience, especially with the wrapping, but the result is worth it.

Let's start with the list of materials.

Adaptable to your own taste or particular project or your own scale, here's the list of materials that I used:

• Scissors

• 4 metal bangles (approximately 6–7 cm / 2.4–2.75 inches in diameter)

• Natural jute twine

• Satin ribbon (about 6 mm / ¼ inch wide)

• 4 small jump rings

• materials to create your cushion, I have made a cushion for now from some white clay and kitchen paper, but I will change this later with a real tiny cushion. It is just to show you how it could look when finished.

• Hot glue gun and glue sticks. For those who don't want to work with a glue gun, use UHU glue or grab fast tacky glue.

• Wire cutters or strong jewelry pliers

By the way, here's how to create tiny cushions, with a lot of extra tips from the community!

Step-by-step tutorial

Let's do this step by step, here we go!

Step 1: Cover the main ring with twine

Start with one metal bangle. This will become the main round frame of the hanging chair.

Wrap jute twine tightly around the bangle, working your way around the full circle. Add a little hot glue here and there while wrapping, so the twine stays in place and does not slide around.

Keep wrapping until the metal ring is completely covered. This gives the chair frame that rustic rope look.

Step 2: Make the hanging stand

Take a second metal ring and cut it open using strong wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors.

Carefully bend the ring into a long, smooth curve. At one end, curl the tip inward with needle-nose pliers to create a small hook. This is where the chair will eventually hang.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire stand with the same jute twine. Secure the beginning and end with a small amount of hot glue, adding a little glue every few centimeters to keep the twine tight and even.

When finished, you should have a curved stand with a hook at the top, ready to support the hanging chair.

Step 3: Attach the stand to the base

Apply a generous amount of hot glue to one side of the wrapped ring. Position the straight end of the curved stand against the ring so it stands upright, creating the base of the chair.

Hold the stand firmly in place until the glue has cooled and hardened. Check that the stand is vertical and that the base sits flat on your work surface. If needed, add a little extra hot glue around the joint to strengthen it.

At this stage, you should have a sturdy freestanding support consisting of the circular base and the curved arm that will hold the hanging chair.

If you like, you could cover the glue residue from the glue gun and untwist (unravel) the rope into individual strands. Then use one of those thinner strands to wrap around the glued joint, but this time use some tacky glue.

Step 4: Make the chair frame

Take another metal ring and gently reshape it into a teardrop. Pinch the top together slightly while keeping the bottom rounded. Don't worry about making it perfect yet—you can adjust the shape as you go.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire frame with the same jute twine. Keep each wrap close to the previous one so the metal is completely hidden.

When finished, you should have a neatly wrapped teardrop-shaped frame that will form the outer edge of your miniature hanging chair. This frame should be slightly smaller than the height of the curved stand, leaving enough room for the chair to hang freely.

Step 5: Add the inner support frame

To give the hanging chair its shape and provide a base for the woven seat, you'll need a second, smaller frame.

Take another metal ring and cut away two small sections, leaving two identical curved pieces. Cover one of these curved pieces with a narrow satin ribbon or fabric tape. Wrapping it instead of using jute creates a smoother finish and prevents extra bulk inside the chair.

Once wrapped, position the curved piece inside the teardrop frame. The ends should meet the frame near the top and bottom, following the same curve as the outside edge while sitting a short distance inward.

Secure both ends with hot glue. This inner support will hold the woven seat and help the miniature hanging chair keep its shape. Before the glue cools completely, make any small adjustments so the support sits evenly and follows the curve of the chair.

Try to remove excess glue once everything is dry.

Step 6: Build the basket frame

Now it's time to give your hanging chair its rounded basket shape by adding the side supports.

Take three more curved metal pieces and wrap each one with the same satin ribbon you used for the first support. This creates a neat finish and keeps the frame slim enough for weaving later.

Glue the first support from the top center of the chair to the opposite side at the bottom. Position the second and third supports evenly around the frame, spacing them equally so they create a rounded, dome-like structure.

Don't worry if the shape isn't perfect straight away. Before the glue sets, gently bend and adjust each support until the basket looks balanced from every angle.

Once the three supports are attached, add two more curved pieces that run across the sides of the chair. Instead of running from top to bottom, these supports connect the left and right sides of the frame, crossing over the existing ribs. This strengthens the structure and gives the chair its rounded, egg-shaped appearance.

Remove excessive glue residu.

Step 7: Add the hanging chain and outer support

It's time to attach the chair to its stand.

Connect four small jump rings together to create a short hanging chain. Attach one end of the chain securely to the top of the chair frame.

Next, position the large outer support around the chair and attach the other end of the chain to the top center of the support. This allows the chair to hang freely inside the frame.

Hang the chain and 'egg' to the top and reinforce it with glue. Make any small adjustments now to ensure it is balanced.

Once you're happy with the position, apply a little extra hot glue over the top attachment point to strengthen the connection.

If any glue is visible, you can disguise it by gluing a few loose jute fibers over the area, giving it the same natural look as the rest of the frame.

Step 8: create some pillows.

For the purpose of this tutorial and its final look, I temporarely used some polymer clay and kitchen paper, but I will add real cushions later.

But for now, I'm done!

Related article:

• How to create a miniature cardboard hall bench with openable drawers.

• How to create a dollhouse miniature plant stand from popsicle sticks and bamboo skewers.

Wrapping It Up

Although it may look like a complicated project at first, it's actually built from just a few simple materials and a little patience. Once the frame is finished, all that's left is to add a soft cushion, a few tiny pillows, or even a miniature throw blanket to make it feel extra cozy.

If you enjoyed making this miniature hanging chair, I'd love to hear how yours turned out. Feel free to leave a comment below or share a photo in my Facebook group!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

One of my favorite things about making dollhouse miniatures is looking at everyday objects and imagining what they could become in miniature. A bottle cap can turn into a summer hat, cardboard can become furniture, and bits of string, ribbon, or fabric often end up as surprisingly realistic accessories.

In this growing collection of tutorials, I'll show you how I transform ordinary household items into simple dollhouse miniatures, starting with small miniature straw hats that could fit a Barbie.

DIY Miniature Summer Hat from a Bottle Cap

Covering a soda bottle cap with cotton cord quickly transforms it into a charming little summer hat for a dollhouse.

The best part is that you can decorate each hat differently. A ribbon, pearl, tiny flower, or bow completely changes the final look.

Materials

• Plastic soda bottle cap
• Thick cardboard or MDF
• Cotton cord (natural or colored)
• Hot glue gun
• Sharp scissors
• Satin ribbon, twine, pearls or other embellishments

Step by step tutorial:

Step 1 – Prepare the bottle cap

Press the bottle cap firmly onto a piece of cardboard or MDF. This will become the brim of your miniature hat.

Place a small drop of hot glue in the center of the bottle cap and begin rolling the cotton cord into a tight spiral.

Continue adding small amounts of hot glue while wrapping the cord around itself until the entire top of the bottle cap is covered.

Without cutting the cord, keep wrapping it around the outside edge of the bottle cap. Each new round forms the brim of the hat.

Keep adding rows of cord until the brim is as wide as you like.

Once the glue has cooled completely, carefully cut around the outside of the brim with sharp scissors. Trim as closely as possible to the edge of the cord.

At this point, you already have a simple miniature straw hat.

And you can start to decorate the hat.

Glue a thin satin ribbon around the base of the crown.

Finish the hat with a small bow, bead, pearl, tiny flower, or any decoration you like.

Conclusion

Who would have thought that an ordinary plastic bottle cap could become such an elegant dollhouse accessory? This little project proves that you don't need expensive materials to make realistic miniatures.

If you're looking for more easy DIY tutorials you can do with the (grand)kids, there are plenty on my site!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I love finding ways to turn everyday materials into miniatures, and cardboard packaging is one of my favorite supplies. It's free, easy to cut, and perfect for a rainy day in summer, together with your (grand)kids.

As a matter of fact, I am writing this in the middle of a thunderstorm during a heatwave :-)

For this project, I built an entire miniature bedroom using recycled cardboard from packaging that would normally end up in the recycling bin. The room includes a bed, dresser, storage cabinet, shelving unit, and even a small decorative rug.

Materials Needed

This is another small project that you can work on with your children, as I have done before here.

List of materials:

• (clean) Corrugated cardboard
• Thin cardboard from food packaging or cereal boxes
• Craft glue or tacky glue
• Pencil
• Metal ruler
• Scissors or craft knife
• Decorative scrapbook paper for the rug
• Small cardboard circles for drawer knobs

Step-by-step tutorial

This tutorial will take you through an afternoon full of crafting fun. You might even want to add this miniature straw hat to the scene, after you build this room, so let's go!

Step 1: Build the Room Structure

Begin by cutting three large pieces of corrugated cardboard.

One piece becomes the floor, while the other two form the walls.

Glue the walls to the floor at a right angle to create a corner room. Hold everything in place until the glue begins to set.

This simple structure provides the base for the entire bedroom scene.

Step 2: Make the Bed

For the bed base, cut a rectangle measuring 8 x 6 cm.

Add borders around all four sides and fold them upward to create depth. Cut small slits at the corners so the sides can fold neatly.

Glue the tabs underneath to form a sturdy box.

Decorate the bed underneath with a colorful cardstock paper print.

You could do the same for the top of the bed, just like I did in this DIY dollhouse bedding tutorial.

For the legs, cut four pieces measuring approximately 2 x 3 cm, fold them into simple supports, and glue them underneath the bed.

Create a decorative headboard from thin cardboard and glue it to one end of the bed.

Step 3: Make the Dresser

Cut a rectangle measuring 6 x 8 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm on all four sides.

Cut the corner slits, fold the borders inward, and glue the tabs to create a box.

Once dry, glue two thin cardboard rectangles onto the front to create drawer fronts.

Finish by adding small cardboard circles as drawer knobs.

You can create multiple ones with different measurements:

Step 4: Make the Tall Drawer Unit

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 12 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm around all four sides.

Fold and glue the cardboard in exactly the same way as the dresser.

Once assembled, add three drawer fronts made from thin cardboard and, again, glue a small cardboard circle onto each drawer.

Step 5: Make the Bookshelf

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 10 cm.

Add borders measuring 2.5 cm around all four sides.

Cut the corner tabs, fold the sides upward, and glue the box together.

To create shelves, cut three narrow strips of cardboard and glue them horizontally inside the unit.

You can decorate everything with wood-colored cardstock paper.

The shelves don't need exact measurements. Simply trim them until they fit snugly between the side walls.

Step 6: Add a Rug

Cut a square from decorative scrapbook paper and place it on the floor.

I chose a floral pattern to add a little color to the room, but any scrapbook paper or printed design will work.

Place the bed, dresser, drawer unit, and bookshelf inside the room.

Move the pieces around until you're happy with the layout.

At this stage, the room is still plain cardboard, but the basic furniture is complete and ready for painting, wallpaper, bedding, books, and other miniature accessories.

Related article: how I created miniature Barbie straw hats from cardboard and bottle caps.

Wrapping up

Let me know in the comments below if you want me to build some more things for this bedroom or/and if you want me to build another type of cardboard room, like a little cardboard kitchen!

I wish you and your (grand)kids happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

If you've ever made miniature pillows, you've probably noticed that they often look easier to make than they actually are.

A tiny square of fabric stuffed with some filling sounds simple enough. Yet many beginners end up with pillows that look too bulky, too stiff, or completely out of scale with the rest of their dollhouse.

Recently, I spent some time browsing Facebook groups, Reddit discussions, miniature forums, and other online communities to see how experienced miniaturists make their pillows.

I also asked directly for tips and was surprised by how many different methods people use.

Some sew every pillow by hand. Others rely entirely on glue. A few use unusual materials like silica beads, sesame seeds, and even sand.

After reading through dozens of suggestions, I noticed the same pieces of advice coming up again and again. This article is a summary of the most useful tips I found, because I can not use every tip myself ( I wish I had the time ;-) ).

The Biggest Mistake: Using Too Much Stuffing

The advice I saw most often was simple: don't overstuff your pillows.

Many miniature pillows end up looking like balloons because they're packed too tightly with filling. Real pillows usually sag slightly under their own weight, and miniature versions should do the same.

Most experienced miniaturists recommend using just enough stuffing to give the pillow shape while still allowing it to flatten naturally.

After closing the pillow, gently squeeze and shape it with your fingers instead of leaving it perfectly square.

Use The Thinnest Fabric You Can Find

Several people pointed out that fabric thickness can make a huge difference.

Even beautiful fabric can look wrong if it's too thick for the scale.

Popular choices include:

• Lightweight cotton
• Old handkerchiefs!
• Thin shirt fabric
• Fabric samples
• Fine quilting cotton

Heavy upholstery fabrics often look oversized in 1:12 scale and can create bulky seams that are difficult to hide.

Sewing The Pillow Inside Out

Many miniature makers use the same basic method for pillows as full-sized sewing projects, meaning:

1. Place the fabric pieces right sides together.
2. Sew around the edges.
3. Leave a small opening.
4. Turn the pillow right-side out.
5. Add stuffing.
6. Close the opening with a few stitches.

One particularly useful tip was to sew as close to the edge as possible. This reduces bulk and helps the finished pillow look more delicate.

Check out this fantastic tutorial by Tasmin Bassett Art

Trim The Corners Before Turning

This tip appeared several times and makes a noticeable difference.

Before turning the pillow right-side out, trim the excess fabric from each corner diagonally.

Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Removing that extra fabric prevents the corners from bunching up and gives the finished pillow sharper, cleaner edges.

Don't Want To Sew? Glue Works Too

One thing that surprised me was how many miniaturists don't sew their pillows at all.

Instead, they use:

• Fabric glue
• Tacky glue
• E6000
• Small amounts of super glue

The process is very similar.

The fabric is glued along the edges, turned right-side out, lightly stuffed, and then sealed.

For very small cushions, many people reported getting results that look almost identical to sewn pillows.

The Double-Sided Tape Method

Several miniaturists mentioned using double-sided tape instead of sewing, and this is what I personally also used for my dollhouse bedding.

The basic idea is:

• Fold the fabric into a tube shape.
• Secure it with double-sided tape.
• Seal one end.
• Add stuffing.
• Close the remaining side.

Others use double-sided tape when making miniature bedding because it keeps fabric neatly in place without the risk of glue soaking through.

It's a surprisingly useful trick, especially for beginners.

Alternative Filling Materials

Polyester fiberfill is still the most common stuffing material, but some miniature makers use other options to make pillows behave more naturally.

Sesame Seeds

One miniaturist shared a tip learned from professional miniature artist Julie Warren.

Small amounts of sesame seeds can be used as filling to give pillows realistic weight and shape.

Sand

A few people mentioned fine sand.

While it creates excellent drape, it can leak if the pillow isn't sealed carefully.

Silica Packets

This was one of the most unusual suggestions.

Several miniaturists suggested using the tiny beads found inside silica packets, or even covering an entire silica gel packet with fabric to create a ready-made cushion insert.

The extra weight helps miniature pillows and cushions sit more naturally on furniture.

Pressing Tiny Fabric Pieces

Working with miniature fabric can be frustrating because pieces shift so easily.

One clever tip involved using a hair straightener instead of a regular iron.

The small plates make it easier to press tiny seams, folds, and pleats without wrestling with a full-sized iron.

Travel irons and miniature craft irons work well too.

Envelope-Style Pillows

One miniaturist described making pillows like small envelopes.

The fabric overlaps at the back, leaving a flap that remains open while stuffing is added.

Once the pillow reaches the desired shape, the flap is glued shut.

This method avoids visible seams and is particularly useful for decorative throw pillows.

Related article: 4 easy ways to create dollhouse curtains.

Wrapping it up

After reading through all these discussions, I noticed that the best-looking miniature pillows don't necessarily come from the most complicated techniques.

The same advice kept appearing:

• Use thin fabric.
• Don't overstuff.
• Trim the corners.
• Add a little weight if possible.
• Press your fabric before assembling.
• Slightly flatten the finished pillow.

How do you make your miniature pillows? Do you sew them, glue them, or use another method entirely? I'd love to hear what works best for you.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Remember last week, when we made the base of this bed? Today, we are doing the bed linen in this separate post, or all the pictures would slow it down.

I wanted this dollhouse bed to feel soft and layered, almost like a real romantic-style bed you would find in a cottage bedroom.

So for this project, I made a pleated bed skirt, a padded blanket, and decorative bedding using fabric, hemming tape, and a few simple materials.

Everything was done without sewing.

Materials I Used

• Thin fabric
• Fusible hemming tape
• Iron
• Paper towels
• Aluminium foil
• Decorative lace trim
• Fabric glue
• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Cutting mat

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Making The Pleated Bed Skirt

For the bed skirt, I started with a long strip of fabric. I made it much longer than the actual side of the bed so there would be enough material for the folds.

I then placed fusible hemming tape along the top edge of the fabric strip.

Then I folded the edge neatly over the tape.

Next, I folded the fabric back and forth to make evenly spaced pleats and sealed the edge with an Iron.

I pressed each fold with the iron so the pleats would stay in place.

You can already see the bed skirt shape starting to form here.

Once the pleats were finished, I glued the strip around the lower edge of the bed base. And covered it in place by adding another piece of hemming tape (push hard).

Step 2: Making The Main Blanket

For the blanket, I cut a rectangular piece of cream-colored fabric.

I added hemming tape along the sides and bottom edge

You can now attach a second layer on top, so you have a double sheet.

To give the blanket some volume, I placed folded paper towels inside aluminium foil.

This acts like a lightweight filling.

Insert it in the 'pouch'.

I added more hemming tape along the final opening and folded the fabric shut.

At this point, the blanket already had a soft padded look without becoming too bulky for the dollhouse scale.

To finish it off, I glued decorative lace trim along the lower edge of the blanket.

That small detail completely changed the look and made the bedding feel much more elegant.

Step 3: Make The Main Blanket

For the blanket itself, I started with a square piece of floral fabric.

I placed hem tape around the edges again so I could attach a second layer also again.

It is basically all the same method as the previous steps, paper towel, and aluminum foil. Fill up the blanket.

And again fold it and close it down.

Finish The Top Decorative Fold

To finish the blanket, I added a separate strip of pink embroidered fabric over the top edge of the floral blanket.

The embroidered strip wraps around the top edge from back to front, almost like a cuff. After that, I folded the front section downward one more time to create a thicker decorative top fold

This might be the tricky part, and I hope you understand what I mean!

Step 4: Add the Mattress and make the Pillows

For the mattress base and pillows, I used the same no-sew method from my earlier tutorial here:
How I Made No-Sew Dollhouse Bedding For My Popsicle Stick Bed

This tutorial would be too long to explain this again, so please refer to the blog post above!

So I created different sizes of pillows :

And a second mattress:

Step 5: put everything together!

The first stuffed blanket you made:

The second on top.

The larger pillows:

And the small ones:

FINISHED!

(Would you create the bed skirt in another color?)

I hope you've enjoyed my second obsession with dollhouse beds lol!

And I wish you happy crafting!

You can always leave a comment down below.

Kind regards,

Lizzy

For this project, I wanted to make a simple dollhouse bed mostly from cardboard and leftover materials I already had at home. The basic structure itself is actually very easy to make, and most of the charm comes later from adding bedding, pillows, and small decorative details.

The bed shown here is roughly 1:12 scale. Part 2 for the bedding will come soon!

Part 2 of the bed is ready; would you like to step straight to the bed linen? Click here!

Materials I Used

I used pretty straightforward materials and tools; this is all there is to it:

• Thick cardboard
• Craft knife
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Cutting mat
• Strong craft glue
• Masking tape
• Wallpaper sample
• White cardstock
• Fabric scraps for the bedding
• Lace trim for decoration

Bed Measurements

These are the measurements I used for the bed structure:

• Base: 13 × 17.5 cm
• Back/headboard piece: 13 × 17 cm
• Front footboard piece: 6 × 13 cm

You can easily resize these measurements if you want to make a larger or smaller dollhouse bed.

If you are not sure how to resize something, feel free to check out my FREE scale converter!

Part 1: Step-by-step tutorial of the bed frame

Step 1: Make the basic bed base

Start with a piece of sturdy cardboard for the main bed base. For this bed, the base measures 13 cm x 17.5 cm.

To make the base look cleaner and more finished, place the cardboard on a piece of white cardstock or thick paper. Add glue around the cardboard, then fold the paper around the back, almost like wrapping a little present.

Press the paper down well on the back so it sticks flat. The front does not need to look perfect yet, because this part will be covered later. The most important thing is that the cardboard base becomes stronger, neater, and has clean white edges.

Fold the next white paper neatly around the back and glue it down.

Step 2: Shape the headboard pieces

Now it is time to create the curved shape for the headboard.

Take your two cardboard pieces measuring 13 × 17 cm. These will become the front and back layers of the headboard.

Measure about 2.5 cm down from both top corners. Then lightly sketch a curved line between those points. I also marked roughly 6.5 cm toward the center to help guide the curve, but honestly, you can freehand this part a little.

Once you are happy with the shape, carefully cut along the curved line using a craft knife.

After cutting the first piece, place it on top of the second cardboard piece and trace around it so both shapes match perfectly.

Cut out the second piece as well. You should now have two identical curved headboard pieces ready for the next step.

Step 3: Glue the headboard layers together

Apply glue across one of the cardboard headboard pieces, and then place the second cardboard piece on top and carefully line up all the edges and curves.

Once both layers are attached, wrap masking tape around the curved top and sides. This helps keep the two layers tightly together while the glue dries and also gives a smoother edge later on.

After that, place the headboard wallpaper shape onto the back of your fabric and trace around it, leaving enough extra paper around the edges so you can fold it over neatly.

Glue the paper onto the front side first, smoothing it down gently with your fingers to avoid wrinkles.

Then fold the extra paper over the edges toward the back and glue everything down neatly. The curved top may need a few tiny folds or cuts in the paper so it lays flat without bunching up.

You should now have a soft-looking headboard piece ready for the next step.

Step 4: Build and cover the base of the bed

I cut a smaller cardboard strip for the front panel at the foot of the bed.

Next, I covered it with the same dollhouse wallpaper print used for the headboard so everything matched nicely.

Glue the headboard piece to the base of the bed that you cut out in the first step.

And then finally, assemble the front piece to the base; make sure everything is stable when placed on the cutting mat.

At this point, the basic structure of the miniature bed is complete and ready for the mattress and bedding later on.

Get ready for step 2 soon, the bedding!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and please feel free to leave a comment down below in the comments section!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

After finishing my popsicle stick dollhouse bed frame, I wanted to make simple bedding to match it. I didn’t use a sewing machine for this project. Instead, I used thin fabric, hemming tape, an iron, aluminum foil, and paper towels to create a miniature blanket that looks soft and realistic in a dollhouse bedroom.

This method is beginner-friendly and works well if you want neat miniature bedding without stitching tiny seams by hand.

Materials I Used

• Thin cotton fabric
• Printed fabric for the decorative side
• Iron-on hemming tape
• Mini iron
• Aluminum foil
• Paper towels
• Scissors
• Iron

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Fabric Layers

For this miniature blanket, I started with two square pieces of thin cotton fabric. I used a lightweight fabric because thicker materials can look bulky in a dollhouse bed.

One side of the blanket has an even color, and the other side has a print.

To bond the two fabric pieces together without sewing, I used iron-on hemming tape (also called fusible bonding tape). This tape becomes adhesive when heat is applied with an iron.

First, I placed strips of the hemming tape along three edges of the fabric, leaving one side open. I positioned the tape between the two fabric layers, making sure the good sides of the fabric were facing outward.

After that, I carefully ironed over the edges to activate the tape and permanently seal the fabric together.

This creates a clean miniature seam without visible stitching and keeps the blanket soft and flexible.

Step 2: folding aluminium and adding paper towel

I now had something like a little fabric pocket. One side stayed open, so I could still fill it.

To help keep the shape while filling it, I used a piece of aluminium foil. I folded the foil edges inward so it became a flat rectangle that would fit inside the fabric pocket.

Then I placed a few pieces of kitchen paper on top of the foil. This gives the bedding a bit of soft volume, without making it look too bulky for a dollhouse bed.

After that, I slid the foil and kitchen paper inside the fabric pocket. This way, the blanket keeps its shape better, but it still looks soft and fabric-like on the outside

Step 3: Close the Open Side of the Bedding

Once the aluminium foil and kitchen paper were slid inside the fabric pocket, only one side was still open.

I placed another strip of iron-on hemming tape inside that open edge, between the two fabric layers.

Next, I folded the fabric edges inward slightly so the raw edges were hidden inside. This gives the bedding a much cleaner finish.

I carefully pressed the folded edge together with my fingers to keep everything aligned before ironing.

Then I used a small iron to heat the hemming tape and permanently seal the final side closed.

At this point, the miniature bedsheet or blanket was fully finished and lightly padded on the inside, while still remaining flexible enough to shape naturally on a dollhouse bed.

Step 4: Making the Miniature Mattress and Fitted Sheet

For the mattress, a thin piece of foam or soft sponge material was wrapped in the same plain pink fabric used for the bedding. The fabric was folded neatly around the foam to give the mattress a smooth upholstered look.

Next, I made a simple fitted sheet using another piece of the same fabric. The edges were folded inward and secured with iron-on hemming tape to create clean seams and prevent fraying. Or you could sew these ones together with a very fine thread, cause this part won't be visible when you put the blanket on it.

Step 5: Making the Bed Pillows

To make the larger bed pillows, small rectangular fabric pieces were folded around tiny stuffed pillow inserts. The inserts are filled with soft stuffing or cotton to keep them fluffy but still in scale.

First, hemming tape was added along the edges of the fabric and folded inward to create neat seams. After ironing the folds flat, the fabric was wrapped around the pillow insert like a miniature pillowcase.

Et voila:

Step 6: Adding the Decorative Mini Pillows

For the final touch, I think this really finishes it; two tiny decorative cushions were made using the leftover printed floral fabric from the blanket.

Again, small pillow inserts were slipped inside the fabric covers, creating matching accent cushions for the bed.

What do you think?

🎥 Watch this Short on YouTube

And that’s it — the miniature bed is finished!

By combining simple fabric pieces, tiny pillow inserts, hemming tape, and a few careful folds, you can create realistic dollhouse bedding without needing advanced sewing skills. The matching pillows and blanket help tie everything together and give the bed a soft, cozy look.

Have a question? Don't hesitate to ask!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I made this miniature bed frame using mostly popsicle sticks and a few basic materials, and it turned out surprisingly sturdy and realistic.

If you’re looking for an easy way to add a bed to your dollhouse without buying a kit, this is a great place to start, because this is one of those projects where you don’t need anything complicated to get a really nice result. Let's go!

THIS TUTORIAL IS BEST WATCHED ON A DESKTOP COMPUTER INSTEAD OF A MOBILE DEVICE, FOR A BETTER OVERVIEW

PS, next week, we will create the bed linen and sheets for this bed, so keep posted!

Materials I Used

For the bed:

• Popsicle sticks (you’ll need quite a few). Thin wooden strips will all be cut from 5 sticks.
• Toothpicks (for the vertical bars)
• Glue (strong craft glue (I used UHU glue) or wood glue)
• Sandpaper
• Paint or wood stain (optional)

Measurements

Here are the measurements I used for this miniature bed frame. You can adjust them slightly depending on your scale, but this gives a solid reference.

Main Structure

• Base slats:
  1 piece = 14 cm long
• Base support (underneath):
  1 piece = 13 cm long

Frame Pieces

• Side rails:
  2 pieces – 11.3 cm x 0.5 cm
• Front and back lower panels (headboard + footboard):
  2 pieces – 11.3 cm x 1 cm
• Top rails (headboard + footboard):
  2 pieces – 13.5 cm x 0.5 cm

Legs

• Legs:
  4 pieces – 7 cm long

Decorative Details

• Vertical bars (toothpicks):
  Cut into pieces of 1.5 cm

👉 These are used for the headboard and footboard detail.

Step-by-step tutorial for the bed

This is a long one with many pictures, so grab your cup of coffee!

Step 1: Cut all your pieces first

I always start by cutting everything up front—it makes the rest of the build much smoother.

Here’s what I used:

• 11 Base slats: popsicle sticks cut to 14 cm,
• Base support: 13 cm
• Side rails: 11.3 cm x 0.5 cm (2 pieces)
• Front and back panels: 11.3 cm x 1 cm (2 pieces)
• Top rails: 13.5 cm x 0.5 cm (2 pieces)
• Legs: 7 cm (4 pieces)
• Toothpicks: cut into 1.5 cm pieces

Take a bit of time here to keep your cuts straight—this really helps later when assembling. And go through the step-by-step pictures to understand better what I mean:

• starting with the base of the bed:
  

==> you know have 11 slats for the base

• This is how we create sturdy legs for the bed:

Cut out 8- 7 cm high popsicle sticks, and glue 2 of each together to make them more sturdy.

After that, you can refine the legs by cutting off one end of the bottom with a box cutter; this makes it more realistic.

(maybe it is better to watch the pictures further down below to see exactly what I mean)

Make everything clean with sandpaper

Step 2: Creating the front and back panels

• The 11.3 cm x 1 cm slats are cut out and glued together for sturdiness

But only do the doubles ones 2 times! (see the reason why below)

• glue the sturdy (double) slats together like this, but leave the middle one a single slate, so they 'pop' out on both sides
  

• glue the legs on both sides of the slats, leaving out the single on in the middle.
  

• glue the 1.5 cm toothpics in the centre, start with the middle ones, so you can measure it out well. It is up to you if you use only three or 4 pieces here. I have chosen to use 4 of them.
  

• Finish the board with a slate on top ( Top rails: 13.5 cm x 0.5 cm )
  

• create 2 of these

Step 3: Create the base of the bed

Use your cutting mat to place the baseboards slats neatly in a row, just apart, wide enough so the reinforcement slate covers it.

Nearly there.

Step 4: Final Assembly

With all parts ready, I connected the headboard and footboard to the side frames. (the base is turned upside down!)

Before the glue fully set, I checked the alignment from different angles and adjusted where needed. This step is worth taking slowly to keep everything square.

Et voila

Step 5: Sanding and/or painting

I lightly sanded the edges and joints to smooth things out.

It’s not strictly necessary, but it helps if you’re planning to paint or stain the wood.

You can leave the wood natural, or finish it depending on your style.

I tested a darker brown finish to give it a more classic wooden look.

But I actually like the non-painted look, how about you? You could just give it a coat of varnish!

That is part 1 for now, this post will be expanded by adding linen to the bed next week, hang on there! (and probably will need to correct some info)

Related article: How to create a Mini Wooden Dollhouse Shelf from Popsicle Sticks or Basswood

I hope you like this tutorial on how to create this dollhouse bed frame from popsicle sticks, and please do leave a comment down below if you have any questions!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I wanted to make a small rustic shelf for a dollhouse using only thin wood strips or popsicle sticks, and honestly… this turned out way better than expected. It’s actually a very straightforward build.

This one fits nicely in a 1:12 dollhouse and works great for kitchens, shops, or little storage corners.

List of Materials

• Thin wooden strips (about 2–3 mm thick, popsicle stick or basswood)
• Craft knife (precision knife)
• Sandpaper (fine grit)
• Wood glue or UHU glue or super grab fast tacky glue
• Pencil
• Cutting mat

My Measurements

These are the measurements I used (approximate, but very close to what you see in the photos):

• Total width: to 5.4 cm
• Total height: 6.5 cm
• Depth: 2.5 cm
• Side panels: 6.5 cm high × 2.5 cm deep
• Shelves: 5 cm wide × 2.5 cm deep
• Top piece: 5 to 5.5 cm wide × 2.5 cm deep
• Back planks: about 1 cm wide each

Step-by-step instructions

Just follow these step-by-step, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Step 1: Sketch the side panels

Start with two wooden pieces cut to about 6.5 cm high and 2.5 cm deep. Draw a soft, curved cut-out on one side.

I placed the curve roughly in the middle of the piece, starting around 3 cm from the bottom. This gives it that classic shape.

Step 2: Cut out the shape

Using a sharp craft knife, carefully cut along the lines. Do this slowly in small passes.

Once the first piece is done, trace it onto the second one so both sides match perfectly.

Step 3: Sand everything smooth

Smooth all edges, especially the curved cut-out. This step really improves the final look.

Step 4: Make the back panel

Glue together several vertical strips to form a panel about 5 to 5.5 cm wide and to 6.5 cm high.

Each strip is roughly 0.8 to 1 cm wide, so you’ll need about 5 to 6 pieces, depending on the brand of popsicle sticks you use.

Glue one or two horizontal strips across the back to hold everything together.

These strips run across the width (about 5 cm) and keep the panel stable.

Step 5: Glue the shelves

Cut two shelf pieces around 5 cm wide and 2.5 cm deep.

Glue the bottom shelf first, leaving about 2.5 to 3 cm space from the base. Then add the second shelf about 2 to 2.5 cm above it.

Glue the two shelves onto the back panel.

Make sure everything is straight and aligned before the glue sets. The depth should be around 2.5 to 3 cm.

Step 6: Add the top piece

Glue a top panel (about 2 mm wider than the shelves) to finish the structure.

This gives it that complete “mini cabinet” look.

Step 7: Final sanding and cleanup

Lightly sand the whole piece to smooth edges and remove glue marks.

You can leave it natural like this, or paint or stain it, depending on your dollhouse style.

This is what it looks like painted, but I prefer the raw version

🎥 Watch this Short on YouTube

This is one of those projects that looks detailed, but once you’ve made one, you can easily make a few more in different sizes. That’s actually what I like most about it. You can tweak the measurements slightly and suddenly you have a completely different piece of furniture.

Any questions? Feel free to ask them down below in the comment section!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy