If you're looking for a quick and beginner-friendly dollhouse project, this miniature plant stand is a fun one to make. It only uses a handful of popsicle sticks, wooden dowels, and a little glue, but the finished piece looks surprisingly stylish. It's perfect for displaying tiny potted plants, books, candles, or other miniature decorations in a modern dollhouse.

Let's build it step by step!

Materials You'll Need

Just a quick tutorial today, and this is all you need:

• Jumbo popsicle sticks
• 4 mm wooden dowels ( like bamboo skewers)
• Craft knife or hobby saw
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Wood glue or strong craft glue
• Sandpaper (optional)

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Make the Three Shelves

Start by making the three shelves for your miniature plant stand.

Using a ruler and pencil, mark a jumbo popsicle stick into 3 cm sections. Cut out nine pieces measuring 3 × 1 cm.

Arrange three of the pieces side by side to form a 3 × 3 cm square. Apply a small amount of glue along the long edges and press the pieces together.

To reinforce the shelf, glue 2 extra 3 × 1 cm pieces across the back. This will hold the three planks firmly together while keeping the front looking like individual boards.

Repeat the process until you have three identical shelves, then allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Tip: Keep the planks as close together as possible while the glue dries. If needed, lightly sand the edges afterward for a cleaner finish.

Step 2: Build the Lower Frame

Start by cutting the following dowels:

• 4 pieces measuring 6.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 6 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 4 cm

Begin by gluing the two 6.5 cm dowels and the two 4 cm dowels together to create a rectangular base. They sit on top of each other, not next to each other.

Next, glue one of the 3 × 3 cm shelves onto the right side of the frame, positioning it flush with the outside edge as shown in the photos.

Now glue two 6 cm dowels vertically onto these shelves. These will support the upper shelves.

Finally, glue 2, 4 cm dowel vertically into the back left corner of the base.

Allow the glue to dry before continuing to the next step, checking that all 4 upright dowels are straight and perpendicular to the base.

Tip: It's easier to let the rectangular frame set for a few minutes before attaching the vertical supports. This keeps everything square and prevents the frame from shifting while the glue is still wet.

Step 3: Add the Remaining Shelves

Cut the following bamboo dowels:

• 2 pieces measuring 3.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 3 cm

Glue two 3.5 cm dowels horizontally between the two taller right-hand uprights. This creates the support for the middle shelf.

Next, glue one of the remaining 3 × 3 cm shelf panels onto the left side, resting on the horizontal support and the angled upright, as shown in the photos.

Now glue the two 3 cm dowels vertically to those shelves on the left side of the structure. These will support the top shelf. Make sure that these 4 are all at the same height.

Finally, position the last 3 × 3 cm shelf panel on top of the four uprights and glue it into place. Make sure all shelves sit level before the glue sets.

Tip: Dry-fit the final shelf before adding glue. If one upright is slightly taller than the others, lightly sand it first so the top shelf sits perfectly flat.

Your Miniature Bamboo Shelf Is Finished!

Once the glue has completely dried, lightly sand away any rough edges or excess glue. You can leave the shelf natural for a simple bamboo look, or paint or stain it to match your dollhouse décor. Add tiny books, plants, baskets, or other miniature accessories to create a charming display piece.

I hope you enjoyed this easy DIY project. If you make your own version, I'd love to hear how you customized it!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I wanted to make a small hanging chair for my miniature treehouse, and this turned out to be such a cute little boho-style project. I used metal bangles for the round shapes, wrapped them with twine, and then you can add a cushion (which I will create later)

It takes a bit of patience, especially with the wrapping, but the result is worth it.

Let's start with the list of materials.

Adaptable to your own taste or particular project or your own scale, here's the list of materials that I used:

• Scissors

• 4 metal bangles (approximately 6–7 cm / 2.4–2.75 inches in diameter)

• Natural jute twine

• Satin ribbon (about 6 mm / ¼ inch wide)

• 4 small jump rings

• materials to create your cushion, I have made a cushion for now from some white clay and kitchen paper, but I will change this later with a real tiny cushion. It is just to show you how it could look when finished.

• Hot glue gun and glue sticks. For those who don't want to work with a glue gun, use UHU glue or grab fast tacky glue.

• Wire cutters or strong jewelry pliers

By the way, here's how to create tiny cushions, with a lot of extra tips from the community!

Step-by-step tutorial

Let's do this step by step, here we go!

Step 1: Cover the main ring with twine

Start with one metal bangle. This will become the main round frame of the hanging chair.

Wrap jute twine tightly around the bangle, working your way around the full circle. Add a little hot glue here and there while wrapping, so the twine stays in place and does not slide around.

Keep wrapping until the metal ring is completely covered. This gives the chair frame that rustic rope look.

Step 2: Make the hanging stand

Take a second metal ring and cut it open using strong wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors.

Carefully bend the ring into a long, smooth curve. At one end, curl the tip inward with needle-nose pliers to create a small hook. This is where the chair will eventually hang.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire stand with the same jute twine. Secure the beginning and end with a small amount of hot glue, adding a little glue every few centimeters to keep the twine tight and even.

When finished, you should have a curved stand with a hook at the top, ready to support the hanging chair.

Step 3: Attach the stand to the base

Apply a generous amount of hot glue to one side of the wrapped ring. Position the straight end of the curved stand against the ring so it stands upright, creating the base of the chair.

Hold the stand firmly in place until the glue has cooled and hardened. Check that the stand is vertical and that the base sits flat on your work surface. If needed, add a little extra hot glue around the joint to strengthen it.

At this stage, you should have a sturdy freestanding support consisting of the circular base and the curved arm that will hold the hanging chair.

If you like, you could cover the glue residue from the glue gun and untwist (unravel) the rope into individual strands. Then use one of those thinner strands to wrap around the glued joint, but this time use some tacky glue.

Step 4: Make the chair frame

Take another metal ring and gently reshape it into a teardrop. Pinch the top together slightly while keeping the bottom rounded. Don't worry about making it perfect yet—you can adjust the shape as you go.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire frame with the same jute twine. Keep each wrap close to the previous one so the metal is completely hidden.

When finished, you should have a neatly wrapped teardrop-shaped frame that will form the outer edge of your miniature hanging chair. This frame should be slightly smaller than the height of the curved stand, leaving enough room for the chair to hang freely.

Step 5: Add the inner support frame

To give the hanging chair its shape and provide a base for the woven seat, you'll need a second, smaller frame.

Take another metal ring and cut away two small sections, leaving two identical curved pieces. Cover one of these curved pieces with a narrow satin ribbon or fabric tape. Wrapping it instead of using jute creates a smoother finish and prevents extra bulk inside the chair.

Once wrapped, position the curved piece inside the teardrop frame. The ends should meet the frame near the top and bottom, following the same curve as the outside edge while sitting a short distance inward.

Secure both ends with hot glue. This inner support will hold the woven seat and help the miniature hanging chair keep its shape. Before the glue cools completely, make any small adjustments so the support sits evenly and follows the curve of the chair.

Try to remove excess glue once everything is dry.

Step 6: Build the basket frame

Now it's time to give your hanging chair its rounded basket shape by adding the side supports.

Take three more curved metal pieces and wrap each one with the same satin ribbon you used for the first support. This creates a neat finish and keeps the frame slim enough for weaving later.

Glue the first support from the top center of the chair to the opposite side at the bottom. Position the second and third supports evenly around the frame, spacing them equally so they create a rounded, dome-like structure.

Don't worry if the shape isn't perfect straight away. Before the glue sets, gently bend and adjust each support until the basket looks balanced from every angle.

Once the three supports are attached, add two more curved pieces that run across the sides of the chair. Instead of running from top to bottom, these supports connect the left and right sides of the frame, crossing over the existing ribs. This strengthens the structure and gives the chair its rounded, egg-shaped appearance.

Remove excessive glue residu.

Step 7: Add the hanging chain and outer support

It's time to attach the chair to its stand.

Connect four small jump rings together to create a short hanging chain. Attach one end of the chain securely to the top of the chair frame.

Next, position the large outer support around the chair and attach the other end of the chain to the top center of the support. This allows the chair to hang freely inside the frame.

Hang the chain and 'egg' to the top and reinforce it with glue. Make any small adjustments now to ensure it is balanced.

Once you're happy with the position, apply a little extra hot glue over the top attachment point to strengthen the connection.

If any glue is visible, you can disguise it by gluing a few loose jute fibers over the area, giving it the same natural look as the rest of the frame.

Step 8: create some pillows.

For the purpose of this tutorial and its final look, I temporarely used some polymer clay and kitchen paper, but I will add real cushions later.

But for now, I'm done!

Related article:

• How to create a miniature cardboard hall bench with openable drawers.

• How to create a dollhouse miniature plant stand from popsicle sticks and bamboo skewers.

Wrapping It Up

Although it may look like a complicated project at first, it's actually built from just a few simple materials and a little patience. Once the frame is finished, all that's left is to add a soft cushion, a few tiny pillows, or even a miniature throw blanket to make it feel extra cozy.

If you enjoyed making this miniature hanging chair, I'd love to hear how yours turned out. Feel free to leave a comment below or share a photo in my Facebook group!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

My first wooden build was a little vintage car I got as a gift with an online order and I loved doing that. But I never looked any further untill one of my friends showed a booknook she made. I loved that so much that I started to look around myself.

I found a lovely booknook to start with, and it got me completely hooked on building miniatures.
I started to look for groups and pages with tips and suggestions and got so many ideas and a 'I want that too' list that became longer and longer.

When building my third miniature I had enough selfconfidence, also thanks to all I saw on those groups and pages to start personalising my kit but that's also where it became a bit difficult, I found out that there's so much recalculating to do and so much changing of what I want in different programms etc. It got me quite confused to be honest.

I stumbled upon this site because I was looking further for printables like books and wallpapers and paintings.

I love the explanations here but especially the various printables that Lizzy makes for us.

The only thing now that I have to learn is how to convert Lizzy's printables into the right scales for my builds, they are usually 1:24 and dollhouse scales are bigger.

So I hope to learn a lot here, even though I don't build dollhouses.

Its been a long minute since I posted on forums and whatnot, so I gotta used to the formatting again lol. 

I've been making miniatures since 2012. I started out very small (lol) and grew to a meager following before I took a 4 year break in early 2022. I am now getting myself back in the mini game, and holy canoli.....the amount of tutorials and mini makers out here is astounding! I have a mere 600 followers on my Instagram, and wayyyyy less on my Facebook lol. 

I havent been back very long, but i was already invited to sell my minis at a miniature show! Its the PNW Mini Show out of Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Washington. I'm doing the Portland one this October. It will be my very first all mini dedicated event. Im nervous....and excited!! 

I hope that I can offer advice here thats helpful and learn some new stuff too! 

One of my favorite things about making dollhouse miniatures is looking at everyday objects and imagining what they could become in miniature. A bottle cap can turn into a summer hat, cardboard can become furniture, and bits of string, ribbon, or fabric often end up as surprisingly realistic accessories.

In this growing collection of tutorials, I'll show you how I transform ordinary household items into simple dollhouse miniatures, starting with small miniature straw hats that could fit a Barbie.

DIY Miniature Summer Hat from a Bottle Cap

Covering a soda bottle cap with cotton cord quickly transforms it into a charming little summer hat for a dollhouse.

The best part is that you can decorate each hat differently. A ribbon, pearl, tiny flower, or bow completely changes the final look.

Materials

• Plastic soda bottle cap
• Thick cardboard or MDF
• Cotton cord (natural or colored)
• Hot glue gun
• Sharp scissors
• Satin ribbon, twine, pearls or other embellishments

Step by step tutorial:

Step 1 – Prepare the bottle cap

Press the bottle cap firmly onto a piece of cardboard or MDF. This will become the brim of your miniature hat.

Place a small drop of hot glue in the center of the bottle cap and begin rolling the cotton cord into a tight spiral.

Continue adding small amounts of hot glue while wrapping the cord around itself until the entire top of the bottle cap is covered.

Without cutting the cord, keep wrapping it around the outside edge of the bottle cap. Each new round forms the brim of the hat.

Keep adding rows of cord until the brim is as wide as you like.

Once the glue has cooled completely, carefully cut around the outside of the brim with sharp scissors. Trim as closely as possible to the edge of the cord.

At this point, you already have a simple miniature straw hat.

And you can start to decorate the hat.

Glue a thin satin ribbon around the base of the crown.

Finish the hat with a small bow, bead, pearl, tiny flower, or any decoration you like.

Conclusion

Who would have thought that an ordinary plastic bottle cap could become such an elegant dollhouse accessory? This little project proves that you don't need expensive materials to make realistic miniatures.

If you're looking for more easy DIY tutorials you can do with the (grand)kids, there are plenty on my site!

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

I recently finished building the Choshi no Shitamachi miniature house from CUTEBEE, one of the kits in their Japanese-themed series.

This kit recreates a small Japanese izakaya (pub or restaurant) complete with lanterns, food displays, sake bottles, a tiny Shiba Inu, and lots of traditional details.

Unlike many larger miniature houses, this one is relatively compact and designed to be completed in just a few hours, exactly what I needed this time. According to CUTEBEE, the kit contains 218 pieces and is rated as a beginner-to-intermediate project.

Check out Cutebee website where you can purchase this DIY kit.
I have a discount code for you to use off 10% off: EVERYTHINGVERYSMALL

After spending time building it myself, I wanted to share what I liked and what I didn't like. (spoiler alert: there wasn't anything I really disliked this time)

Disclaimer: opinions of this miniature kit are my own; I didn't receive payment for this blog post review.

Technical Information

• Brand: CUTEBEE
• Model: Choshi no Shitamachi
• Theme: Traditional Japanese Izakaya
• Pieces: 218
• Assembly time: Approximately 3–5 hours according to the manufacturer
• Difficulty level: ★★
• Size: Approximately 19 x 14 x 16 cm
• Lighting included: Yes
• Dust cover included: Yes
• Batteries required: 2 AAA batteries (not included)

Check out Cutebee website where you can purchase this DIY kit.
I have a discount code for you to use off 10% off: EVERYTHINGVERYSMALL

Check out my unboxing video below to find out the content of the box:

When I opened the box, my first impression was how approachable this kit looked.

The pieces were neatly organized, the instructions looked clear at first glance, and there weren't hundreds of tiny parts that immediately make you wonder what you've gotten yourself into.

The kit includes all the wooden pieces, printed accessories, LED lighting, a clear dust cover, and a small selection of spare parts.

Building Experience

This was one of the easiest miniature kits I've built in a while. The instructions were clear from start to finish, and I completed the entire project in less than 3 hours.

The kit uses a tab-and-slot assembly system, so very little glue is needed. Most pieces simply push together and lock into place.

Check out Cutebee website where you can purchase this DIY kit.
I have a discount code for you to use off 10% off: EVERYTHINGVERYSMALL

The fit was excellent throughout the build, although some parts required a bit of finger strength to push fully into position. Builders with arthritis or delicate skin may find this slightly challenging.

The materials were also very good quality. The wooden pieces were sturdy, the laser cutting was clean, and everything fitted together accurately.

CUTEBEE includes a few spare pieces and a dust cover, which is always a nice bonus.

What I Liked Most

Check out Cutebee website where you can purchase this DIY kit.
I have a discount code for you to use off 10% off: EVERYTHINGVERYSMALL

The lighting is surprisingly effective. Although the kit only includes two LED lights, the light is spread evenly throughout the entire scene, making all the details easy to see.

I also loved how well the kit captures the atmosphere of a small Japanese street-side restaurant. The lanterns, food displays, and overall layout give it plenty of character despite its compact size.

Final result:

Final Verdict

Choshi no Shitamachi is a fantastic choice if you're looking for a quick, beginner-friendly project that still looks impressive when finished. It captures the Japanese izakaya atmosphere beautifully, is easy to assemble, and offers excellent value for money.

My overall rating: 9.5/10.

Any questions? Feel free to leave them down below :-)

I wish you happy crafting!

I love finding ways to turn everyday materials into miniatures, and cardboard packaging is one of my favorite supplies. It's free, easy to cut, and perfect for a rainy day in summer, together with your (grand)kids.

As a matter of fact, I am writing this in the middle of a thunderstorm during a heatwave :-)

For this project, I built an entire miniature bedroom using recycled cardboard from packaging that would normally end up in the recycling bin. The room includes a bed, dresser, storage cabinet, shelving unit, and even a small decorative rug.

Materials Needed

This is another small project that you can work on with your children, as I have done before here.

List of materials:

• (clean) Corrugated cardboard
• Thin cardboard from food packaging or cereal boxes
• Craft glue or tacky glue
• Pencil
• Metal ruler
• Scissors or craft knife
• Decorative scrapbook paper for the rug
• Small cardboard circles for drawer knobs

Step-by-step tutorial

This tutorial will take you through an afternoon full of crafting fun. You might even want to add this miniature straw hat to the scene, after you build this room, so let's go!

Step 1: Build the Room Structure

Begin by cutting three large pieces of corrugated cardboard.

One piece becomes the floor, while the other two form the walls.

Glue the walls to the floor at a right angle to create a corner room. Hold everything in place until the glue begins to set.

This simple structure provides the base for the entire bedroom scene.

Step 2: Make the Bed

For the bed base, cut a rectangle measuring 8 x 6 cm.

Add borders around all four sides and fold them upward to create depth. Cut small slits at the corners so the sides can fold neatly.

Glue the tabs underneath to form a sturdy box.

Decorate the bed underneath with a colorful cardstock paper print.

You could do the same for the top of the bed, just like I did in this DIY dollhouse bedding tutorial.

For the legs, cut four pieces measuring approximately 2 x 3 cm, fold them into simple supports, and glue them underneath the bed.

Create a decorative headboard from thin cardboard and glue it to one end of the bed.

Step 3: Make the Dresser

Cut a rectangle measuring 6 x 8 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm on all four sides.

Cut the corner slits, fold the borders inward, and glue the tabs to create a box.

Once dry, glue two thin cardboard rectangles onto the front to create drawer fronts.

Finish by adding small cardboard circles as drawer knobs.

You can create multiple ones with different measurements:

Step 4: Make the Tall Drawer Unit

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 12 cm.

Add borders measuring 3 cm around all four sides.

Fold and glue the cardboard in exactly the same way as the dresser.

Once assembled, add three drawer fronts made from thin cardboard and, again, glue a small cardboard circle onto each drawer.

Step 5: Make the Bookshelf

Cut a rectangle measuring 4 x 10 cm.

Add borders measuring 2.5 cm around all four sides.

Cut the corner tabs, fold the sides upward, and glue the box together.

To create shelves, cut three narrow strips of cardboard and glue them horizontally inside the unit.

You can decorate everything with wood-colored cardstock paper.

The shelves don't need exact measurements. Simply trim them until they fit snugly between the side walls.

Step 6: Add a Rug

Cut a square from decorative scrapbook paper and place it on the floor.

I chose a floral pattern to add a little color to the room, but any scrapbook paper or printed design will work.

Place the bed, dresser, drawer unit, and bookshelf inside the room.

Move the pieces around until you're happy with the layout.

At this stage, the room is still plain cardboard, but the basic furniture is complete and ready for painting, wallpaper, bedding, books, and other miniature accessories.

Related article: how I created miniature Barbie straw hats from cardboard and bottle caps.

Wrapping up

Let me know in the comments below if you want me to build some more things for this bedroom or/and if you want me to build another type of cardboard room, like a little cardboard kitchen!

I wish you and your (grand)kids happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

If you've ever made miniature pillows, you've probably noticed that they often look easier to make than they actually are.

A tiny square of fabric stuffed with some filling sounds simple enough. Yet many beginners end up with pillows that look too bulky, too stiff, or completely out of scale with the rest of their dollhouse.

Recently, I spent some time browsing Facebook groups, Reddit discussions, miniature forums, and other online communities to see how experienced miniaturists make their pillows.

I also asked directly for tips and was surprised by how many different methods people use.

Some sew every pillow by hand. Others rely entirely on glue. A few use unusual materials like silica beads, sesame seeds, and even sand.

After reading through dozens of suggestions, I noticed the same pieces of advice coming up again and again. This article is a summary of the most useful tips I found, because I can not use every tip myself ( I wish I had the time ;-) ).

The Biggest Mistake: Using Too Much Stuffing

The advice I saw most often was simple: don't overstuff your pillows.

Many miniature pillows end up looking like balloons because they're packed too tightly with filling. Real pillows usually sag slightly under their own weight, and miniature versions should do the same.

Most experienced miniaturists recommend using just enough stuffing to give the pillow shape while still allowing it to flatten naturally.

After closing the pillow, gently squeeze and shape it with your fingers instead of leaving it perfectly square.

Use The Thinnest Fabric You Can Find

Several people pointed out that fabric thickness can make a huge difference.

Even beautiful fabric can look wrong if it's too thick for the scale.

Popular choices include:

• Lightweight cotton
• Old handkerchiefs!
• Thin shirt fabric
• Fabric samples
• Fine quilting cotton

Heavy upholstery fabrics often look oversized in 1:12 scale and can create bulky seams that are difficult to hide.

Sewing The Pillow Inside Out

Many miniature makers use the same basic method for pillows as full-sized sewing projects, meaning:

1. Place the fabric pieces right sides together.
2. Sew around the edges.
3. Leave a small opening.
4. Turn the pillow right-side out.
5. Add stuffing.
6. Close the opening with a few stitches.

One particularly useful tip was to sew as close to the edge as possible. This reduces bulk and helps the finished pillow look more delicate.

Check out this fantastic tutorial by Tasmin Bassett Art

Trim The Corners Before Turning

This tip appeared several times and makes a noticeable difference.

Before turning the pillow right-side out, trim the excess fabric from each corner diagonally.

Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Removing that extra fabric prevents the corners from bunching up and gives the finished pillow sharper, cleaner edges.

Don't Want To Sew? Glue Works Too

One thing that surprised me was how many miniaturists don't sew their pillows at all.

Instead, they use:

• Fabric glue
• Tacky glue
• E6000
• Small amounts of super glue

The process is very similar.

The fabric is glued along the edges, turned right-side out, lightly stuffed, and then sealed.

For very small cushions, many people reported getting results that look almost identical to sewn pillows.

The Double-Sided Tape Method

Several miniaturists mentioned using double-sided tape instead of sewing, and this is what I personally also used for my dollhouse bedding.

The basic idea is:

• Fold the fabric into a tube shape.
• Secure it with double-sided tape.
• Seal one end.
• Add stuffing.
• Close the remaining side.

Others use double-sided tape when making miniature bedding because it keeps fabric neatly in place without the risk of glue soaking through.

It's a surprisingly useful trick, especially for beginners.

Alternative Filling Materials

Polyester fiberfill is still the most common stuffing material, but some miniature makers use other options to make pillows behave more naturally.

Sesame Seeds

One miniaturist shared a tip learned from professional miniature artist Julie Warren.

Small amounts of sesame seeds can be used as filling to give pillows realistic weight and shape.

Sand

A few people mentioned fine sand.

While it creates excellent drape, it can leak if the pillow isn't sealed carefully.

Silica Packets

This was one of the most unusual suggestions.

Several miniaturists suggested using the tiny beads found inside silica packets, or even covering an entire silica gel packet with fabric to create a ready-made cushion insert.

The extra weight helps miniature pillows and cushions sit more naturally on furniture.

Pressing Tiny Fabric Pieces

Working with miniature fabric can be frustrating because pieces shift so easily.

One clever tip involved using a hair straightener instead of a regular iron.

The small plates make it easier to press tiny seams, folds, and pleats without wrestling with a full-sized iron.

Travel irons and miniature craft irons work well too.

Envelope-Style Pillows

One miniaturist described making pillows like small envelopes.

The fabric overlaps at the back, leaving a flap that remains open while stuffing is added.

Once the pillow reaches the desired shape, the flap is glued shut.

This method avoids visible seams and is particularly useful for decorative throw pillows.

Related article: 4 easy ways to create dollhouse curtains.

Wrapping it up

After reading through all these discussions, I noticed that the best-looking miniature pillows don't necessarily come from the most complicated techniques.

The same advice kept appearing:

• Use thin fabric.
• Don't overstuff.
• Trim the corners.
• Add a little weight if possible.
• Press your fabric before assembling.
• Slightly flatten the finished pillow.

How do you make your miniature pillows? Do you sew them, glue them, or use another method entirely? I'd love to hear what works best for you.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

When I first saw the Whispering Hollow miniature house kit by Anavrin, my first thought was simple:

"Wow."

My second thought was:

"Wow... that's expensive." Is it worth the price?

This is definitely not one of the cheaper DIY miniature kits on the market. But after seeing the finished design, I couldn't stop looking at it.

After spending around 8 to 10 hours building it, I can honestly say that this is one of the most unique miniature kits I have assembled so far.

Is it perfect? No.

Is it different from almost everything else available in the DIY miniature world? Absolutely.

Here's my experience building the Whispering Hollow miniature house kit.

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

Disclaimer: Every review of a DIY miniature kit on my blog is my own! I do NOT get paid to write these types of blog posts! (pos or neg)

What Is The Whispering Hollow Miniature House?

Whispering Hollow is a fantasy-themed miniature house kit designed by Anavrin.

The finished scene features several tiny hillside homes connected by stairways, bridges, lanterns, trees, waterfalls, and an incredible amount of greenery. The entire village appears to be built into a hillside surrounded by nature.

The first thing it reminded me of was the Shire from the Lord of the Rings films. While it isn't officially connected to the movies, the atmosphere feels very similar.

I've built many miniature kits over the years, including book nooks, room boxes, and traditional dollhouses, but I honestly haven't seen anything quite like this before.

The combination of the waterfall, the layered houses, the lighting effects, and the hidden details gives it a completely different look from most miniature kits.

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

What's Included In The Kit?

The kit comes with pre-cut wooden pieces, lighting components, decorative accessories, printed details, greenery materials, transparent dust covers, tweezers and a screwdriver, and assembly instructions.

Everything needed for the build is included except the batteries and the glue. As always, I advise using grab-fast tacky glue.

Alternatively, Anavrin also includes a USB power cable, which is a nice option if you prefer using rechargeable batteries.

The finished piece includes integrated lighting that helps bring the entire village to life once completed.

Check out my unboxing video to see the content for real:

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

My Experience Building Whispering Hollow

Overall, I found this kit enjoyable to build, although its scale is a lot smaller than usual. My best guess is that it feels much smaller than 1:22 or 1:24, closer to a quarter-scale fantasy village, around 1:48 scale.

The estimated build time is around 8 to 10 hours, which felt about right in my case.

I wouldn't describe it as particularly difficult, but there were sections that required more attention than the rest.

1 The Tree Assembly Needs Careful Attention

The main challenge for me was the large tree structure along the side of the build.

Several parts need to connect in very specific locations. If even one section is slightly out of place, it becomes difficult to click everything together properly later.

Unfortunately, I discovered that a little too late.

In my case, I ended up gluing one section into place instead of clicking it nicely to the base because I hadn't assembled it exactly as intended. The good news is that you can't see the difference in the finished model.

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

The Greenery Took Patience

One of the things that makes Whispering Hollow look so impressive is the amount of greenery covering the roofs, pathways, and landscape.

It also turned out to be one of the more time-consuming parts of the build.

The method that worked best for me was applying a very thin layer of glue with a brush and then carefully adding the greenery on top.

A fine brush gives much better control than applying glue directly from the bottle.

Don't expect perfection on your first attempt. I found myself adjusting certain areas several times before I was happy with the result.

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

Why Build Interiors That You Can Barely See?

One thing I kept asking myself while building was: why did they include so many interior details inside the little houses?

There are tiny furnishings, decorations, and details hidden throughout the village.

The funny thing is that once everything is assembled, you can barely see some of them.

Just the little chairs, really.

Part of me wishes those details were easier to admire in the finished model.

What I Loved Most

Without question, the atmosphere.

Photos don't fully capture how impressive this kit looks once the lights are turned on.

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

The waterfall immediately draws attention, but the real magic comes from how all the elements work together.

The tiny houses, the layered pathways, the greenery, the warm lighting, and the fantasy-inspired design all combine into a miniature scene that feels alive.

I also really liked the decorative book-style background panels and the parchment-style artwork behind the village.

The included dust covers , which can easily be removed, are another nice touch that results in this premium price.

I did accidentally break one small section of a dust cover while assembling it. Fortunately, I was able to glue it back together without any noticeable issues.

Pros And Cons: a review

Check out this book nook by Anavrin in their store here.

Pros

• One of the most original miniature kits I've seen
• Strong fantasy atmosphere
• Beautiful waterfall feature
• Excellent lighting effects
• Lots of hidden details
• Includes dust covers
• USB power option included
• Enjoyable build process
• Looks fantastic when completed

Cons

• Many interior details become difficult to see after assembly

• Expensive compared to many other miniature kits

• Greenery application takes patience

• Tree assembly requires careful attention

• Some scale differences feel slightly odd

Final Thoughts: Is Whispering Hollow Worth It?

If you're looking for a budget-friendly miniature kit, Whispering Hollow probably isn't the first kit I would recommend.

However, if you're looking for something genuinely different, something that immediately catches people's attention when displayed, this kit delivers.

And every time I walk past it and see the lights glowing around that little hillside village, I think the same thing I thought when I first saw it: Wow.

I wish you happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Remember last week, when we made the base of this bed? Today, we are doing the bed linen in this separate post, or all the pictures would slow it down.

I wanted this dollhouse bed to feel soft and layered, almost like a real romantic-style bed you would find in a cottage bedroom.

So for this project, I made a pleated bed skirt, a padded blanket, and decorative bedding using fabric, hemming tape, and a few simple materials.

Everything was done without sewing.

Materials I Used

• Thin fabric
• Fusible hemming tape
• Iron
• Paper towels
• Aluminium foil
• Decorative lace trim
• Fabric glue
• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Cutting mat

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Making The Pleated Bed Skirt

For the bed skirt, I started with a long strip of fabric. I made it much longer than the actual side of the bed so there would be enough material for the folds.

I then placed fusible hemming tape along the top edge of the fabric strip.

Then I folded the edge neatly over the tape.

Next, I folded the fabric back and forth to make evenly spaced pleats and sealed the edge with an Iron.

I pressed each fold with the iron so the pleats would stay in place.

You can already see the bed skirt shape starting to form here.

Once the pleats were finished, I glued the strip around the lower edge of the bed base. And covered it in place by adding another piece of hemming tape (push hard).

Step 2: Making The Main Blanket

For the blanket, I cut a rectangular piece of cream-colored fabric.

I added hemming tape along the sides and bottom edge

You can now attach a second layer on top, so you have a double sheet.

To give the blanket some volume, I placed folded paper towels inside aluminium foil.

This acts like a lightweight filling.

Insert it in the 'pouch'.

I added more hemming tape along the final opening and folded the fabric shut.

At this point, the blanket already had a soft padded look without becoming too bulky for the dollhouse scale.

To finish it off, I glued decorative lace trim along the lower edge of the blanket.

That small detail completely changed the look and made the bedding feel much more elegant.

Step 3: Make The Main Blanket

For the blanket itself, I started with a square piece of floral fabric.

I placed hem tape around the edges again so I could attach a second layer also again.

It is basically all the same method as the previous steps, paper towel, and aluminum foil. Fill up the blanket.

And again fold it and close it down.

Finish The Top Decorative Fold

To finish the blanket, I added a separate strip of pink embroidered fabric over the top edge of the floral blanket.

The embroidered strip wraps around the top edge from back to front, almost like a cuff. After that, I folded the front section downward one more time to create a thicker decorative top fold

This might be the tricky part, and I hope you understand what I mean!

Step 4: Add the Mattress and make the Pillows

For the mattress base and pillows, I used the same no-sew method from my earlier tutorial here:
How I Made No-Sew Dollhouse Bedding For My Popsicle Stick Bed

This tutorial would be too long to explain this again, so please refer to the blog post above!

So I created different sizes of pillows :

And a second mattress:

Step 5: put everything together!

The first stuffed blanket you made:

The second on top.

The larger pillows:

And the small ones:

FINISHED!

(Would you create the bed skirt in another color?)

I hope you've enjoyed my second obsession with dollhouse beds lol!

And I wish you happy crafting!

You can always leave a comment down below.

Kind regards,

Lizzy