If you're looking for a quick and beginner-friendly dollhouse project, this miniature plant stand is a fun one to make. It only uses a handful of popsicle sticks, wooden dowels, and a little glue, but the finished piece looks surprisingly stylish. It's perfect for displaying tiny potted plants, books, candles, or other miniature decorations in a modern dollhouse.

Let's build it step by step!

Materials You'll Need

Just a quick tutorial today, and this is all you need:

• Jumbo popsicle sticks
• 4 mm wooden dowels ( like bamboo skewers)
• Craft knife or hobby saw
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Wood glue or strong craft glue
• Sandpaper (optional)

Step-by-step tutorial

Step 1: Make the Three Shelves

Start by making the three shelves for your miniature plant stand.

Using a ruler and pencil, mark a jumbo popsicle stick into 3 cm sections. Cut out nine pieces measuring 3 × 1 cm.

Arrange three of the pieces side by side to form a 3 × 3 cm square. Apply a small amount of glue along the long edges and press the pieces together.

To reinforce the shelf, glue 2 extra 3 × 1 cm pieces across the back. This will hold the three planks firmly together while keeping the front looking like individual boards.

Repeat the process until you have three identical shelves, then allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Tip: Keep the planks as close together as possible while the glue dries. If needed, lightly sand the edges afterward for a cleaner finish.

Step 2: Build the Lower Frame

Start by cutting the following dowels:

• 4 pieces measuring 6.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 6 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 4 cm

Begin by gluing the two 6.5 cm dowels and the two 4 cm dowels together to create a rectangular base. They sit on top of each other, not next to each other.

Next, glue one of the 3 × 3 cm shelves onto the right side of the frame, positioning it flush with the outside edge as shown in the photos.

Now glue two 6 cm dowels vertically onto these shelves. These will support the upper shelves.

Finally, glue 2, 4 cm dowel vertically into the back left corner of the base.

Allow the glue to dry before continuing to the next step, checking that all 4 upright dowels are straight and perpendicular to the base.

Tip: It's easier to let the rectangular frame set for a few minutes before attaching the vertical supports. This keeps everything square and prevents the frame from shifting while the glue is still wet.

Step 3: Add the Remaining Shelves

Cut the following bamboo dowels:

• 2 pieces measuring 3.5 cm
• 2 pieces measuring 3 cm

Glue two 3.5 cm dowels horizontally between the two taller right-hand uprights. This creates the support for the middle shelf.

Next, glue one of the remaining 3 × 3 cm shelf panels onto the left side, resting on the horizontal support and the angled upright, as shown in the photos.

Now glue the two 3 cm dowels vertically to those shelves on the left side of the structure. These will support the top shelf. Make sure that these 4 are all at the same height.

Finally, position the last 3 × 3 cm shelf panel on top of the four uprights and glue it into place. Make sure all shelves sit level before the glue sets.

Tip: Dry-fit the final shelf before adding glue. If one upright is slightly taller than the others, lightly sand it first so the top shelf sits perfectly flat.

Your Miniature Bamboo Shelf Is Finished!

Once the glue has completely dried, lightly sand away any rough edges or excess glue. You can leave the shelf natural for a simple bamboo look, or paint or stain it to match your dollhouse décor. Add tiny books, plants, baskets, or other miniature accessories to create a charming display piece.

I hope you enjoyed this easy DIY project. If you make your own version, I'd love to hear how you customized it!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

Hi! I'm sorry you had such a disappointing experience. I can completely understand why that would put you off the brand, especially considering the price of those kits.

To be fair, I actually shared some of those concerns in my very first Anavrin review a couple of years ago. Some of the earlier kits had quality control issues, and I wasn't shy about pointing them out.

What's interesting, though, is that I've now built quite a few of their kits over the past two years, and in my experience they have improved significantly. The materials, fit, instructions, and overall finish of the newer releases are noticeably better than the older ones. My most recent build, this Whispering Hollow, was probably the best Anavrin kit I've assembled so far.

Customer service is also something that can make or break a company. I do understand their position that they couldn't verify a second-hand purchase, but I can also see why that felt frustrating when you only needed a few replacement parts.

I certainly wouldn't say every Anavrin kit is perfect, but based on the newer releases, I do think they've come a long way from where they started.

If you're interested, I actually wrote an updated review after building multiple Anavrin kits over the last two years, where I compare how the brand has evolved:
https://everythingverysmall.com/anavrin-book-nooks-my-updated-review-after-two-years/

Of course, everyone's experience is different, but I thought it was worth sharing another perspective based on several of their newer kits.

I wanted to make a small hanging chair for my miniature treehouse, and this turned out to be such a cute little boho-style project. I used metal bangles for the round shapes, wrapped them with twine, and then you can add a cushion (which I will create later)

It takes a bit of patience, especially with the wrapping, but the result is worth it.

Let's start with the list of materials.

Adaptable to your own taste or particular project or your own scale, here's the list of materials that I used:

• Scissors

• 4 metal bangles (approximately 6–7 cm / 2.4–2.75 inches in diameter)

• Natural jute twine

• Satin ribbon (about 6 mm / ¼ inch wide)

• 4 small jump rings

• materials to create your cushion, I have made a cushion for now from some white clay and kitchen paper, but I will change this later with a real tiny cushion. It is just to show you how it could look when finished.

• Hot glue gun and glue sticks. For those who don't want to work with a glue gun, use UHU glue or grab fast tacky glue.

• Wire cutters or strong jewelry pliers

By the way, here's how to create tiny cushions, with a lot of extra tips from the community!

Step-by-step tutorial

Let's do this step by step, here we go!

Step 1: Cover the main ring with twine

Start with one metal bangle. This will become the main round frame of the hanging chair.

Wrap jute twine tightly around the bangle, working your way around the full circle. Add a little hot glue here and there while wrapping, so the twine stays in place and does not slide around.

Keep wrapping until the metal ring is completely covered. This gives the chair frame that rustic rope look.

Step 2: Make the hanging stand

Take a second metal ring and cut it open using strong wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors.

Carefully bend the ring into a long, smooth curve. At one end, curl the tip inward with needle-nose pliers to create a small hook. This is where the chair will eventually hang.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire stand with the same jute twine. Secure the beginning and end with a small amount of hot glue, adding a little glue every few centimeters to keep the twine tight and even.

When finished, you should have a curved stand with a hook at the top, ready to support the hanging chair.

Step 3: Attach the stand to the base

Apply a generous amount of hot glue to one side of the wrapped ring. Position the straight end of the curved stand against the ring so it stands upright, creating the base of the chair.

Hold the stand firmly in place until the glue has cooled and hardened. Check that the stand is vertical and that the base sits flat on your work surface. If needed, add a little extra hot glue around the joint to strengthen it.

At this stage, you should have a sturdy freestanding support consisting of the circular base and the curved arm that will hold the hanging chair.

If you like, you could cover the glue residue from the glue gun and untwist (unravel) the rope into individual strands. Then use one of those thinner strands to wrap around the glued joint, but this time use some tacky glue.

Step 4: Make the chair frame

Take another metal ring and gently reshape it into a teardrop. Pinch the top together slightly while keeping the bottom rounded. Don't worry about making it perfect yet—you can adjust the shape as you go.

Once you're happy with the shape, wrap the entire frame with the same jute twine. Keep each wrap close to the previous one so the metal is completely hidden.

When finished, you should have a neatly wrapped teardrop-shaped frame that will form the outer edge of your miniature hanging chair. This frame should be slightly smaller than the height of the curved stand, leaving enough room for the chair to hang freely.

Step 5: Add the inner support frame

To give the hanging chair its shape and provide a base for the woven seat, you'll need a second, smaller frame.

Take another metal ring and cut away two small sections, leaving two identical curved pieces. Cover one of these curved pieces with a narrow satin ribbon or fabric tape. Wrapping it instead of using jute creates a smoother finish and prevents extra bulk inside the chair.

Once wrapped, position the curved piece inside the teardrop frame. The ends should meet the frame near the top and bottom, following the same curve as the outside edge while sitting a short distance inward.

Secure both ends with hot glue. This inner support will hold the woven seat and help the miniature hanging chair keep its shape. Before the glue cools completely, make any small adjustments so the support sits evenly and follows the curve of the chair.

Try to remove excess glue once everything is dry.

Step 6: Build the basket frame

Now it's time to give your hanging chair its rounded basket shape by adding the side supports.

Take three more curved metal pieces and wrap each one with the same satin ribbon you used for the first support. This creates a neat finish and keeps the frame slim enough for weaving later.

Glue the first support from the top center of the chair to the opposite side at the bottom. Position the second and third supports evenly around the frame, spacing them equally so they create a rounded, dome-like structure.

Don't worry if the shape isn't perfect straight away. Before the glue sets, gently bend and adjust each support until the basket looks balanced from every angle.

Once the three supports are attached, add two more curved pieces that run across the sides of the chair. Instead of running from top to bottom, these supports connect the left and right sides of the frame, crossing over the existing ribs. This strengthens the structure and gives the chair its rounded, egg-shaped appearance.

Remove excessive glue residu.

Step 7: Add the hanging chain and outer support

It's time to attach the chair to its stand.

Connect four small jump rings together to create a short hanging chain. Attach one end of the chain securely to the top of the chair frame.

Next, position the large outer support around the chair and attach the other end of the chain to the top center of the support. This allows the chair to hang freely inside the frame.

Hang the chain and 'egg' to the top and reinforce it with glue. Make any small adjustments now to ensure it is balanced.

Once you're happy with the position, apply a little extra hot glue over the top attachment point to strengthen the connection.

If any glue is visible, you can disguise it by gluing a few loose jute fibers over the area, giving it the same natural look as the rest of the frame.

Step 8: create some pillows.

For the purpose of this tutorial and its final look, I temporarely used some polymer clay and kitchen paper, but I will add real cushions later.

But for now, I'm done!

Related article:

• How to create a miniature cardboard hall bench with openable drawers.

• How to create a dollhouse miniature plant stand from popsicle sticks and bamboo skewers.

Wrapping It Up

Although it may look like a complicated project at first, it's actually built from just a few simple materials and a little patience. Once the frame is finished, all that's left is to add a soft cushion, a few tiny pillows, or even a miniature throw blanket to make it feel extra cozy.

If you enjoyed making this miniature hanging chair, I'd love to hear how yours turned out. Feel free to leave a comment below or share a photo in my Facebook group!

Happy crafting!

Kind regards,

Lizzy

My first wooden build was a little vintage car I got as a gift with an online order and I loved doing that. But I never looked any further untill one of my friends showed a booknook she made. I loved that so much that I started to look around myself.

I found a lovely booknook to start with, and it got me completely hooked on building miniatures.
I started to look for groups and pages with tips and suggestions and got so many ideas and a 'I want that too' list that became longer and longer.

When building my third miniature I had enough selfconfidence, also thanks to all I saw on those groups and pages to start personalising my kit but that's also where it became a bit difficult, I found out that there's so much recalculating to do and so much changing of what I want in different programms etc. It got me quite confused to be honest.

I stumbled upon this site because I was looking further for printables like books and wallpapers and paintings.

I love the explanations here but especially the various printables that Lizzy makes for us.

The only thing now that I have to learn is how to convert Lizzy's printables into the right scales for my builds, they are usually 1:24 and dollhouse scales are bigger.

So I hope to learn a lot here, even though I don't build dollhouses.